* OCT  5 1908  * 


Division 


tsi 

.1)58 

V .“32- 


Section 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/antiquitiesofjemOOhewe 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


MARGIN  OF  JEMEZ  PLATEAU  FROM  THE  PUEBLO  OF  SANTA  CLARA 


SMITHSONIAN  INSTITUTION 

BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 

BULLETIN  32 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU, 
NEW  MEXICO 


BY 


EDGAR  D.  HEWLETT 


WASHINGTON 
government  printing  office 
1906 


CONTENTS 


Page 

Announcement 7 

Introductory  note 9 

Physiography  of  the  Jemez  plateau 9 

Archeological  remains ...  10 

The  ancient  inhabitants 12 

Distribution  of  the  ruins 13 

I.  Ruins  of  the  Pajarito  plateau 14 

No.  1.  Shufinne 14 

No.  2.  Puye 14 

No.  3.  Chipiwi 15 

No.  4.  Navahu 16 

No.  5.  Pininicangwi & 

No.  6.  Chupadero 16 

No.  7.  Perage 16 

No.  8.  Otovvi 18 

No.  9 20 

No.  10.  Tsankawi 20 

No.  11 21 

No.  12 22 

No.  13.  Sandia 22 

No.  14.  Navawi 22 

No.  15.  Tshirege 23 

No.  16 25 

No.  17 25 

No.  18 25 

No.  19 26 

No.  20 26 

No.  21.  Tyuonyi 26 

No.  22.  Pueblo  of  the  Yapashi  and  the  Stone  Lions 29 

No.  23.  La  Cueva  Pintada 30 

No.  24.  Haatse 31 

No.  25.  Stone  Lions  of  Potrero  de  los  Idolos 31 

No.  26.  Kuapa 32 

No.  27.  Kotyiti 32 

II.  Ruins  of  the  Chama  drainage 33 

No.  28.  Poihuuinge 33 

No.  29  Teeuinge 34 

No.  30.  Kwengyauinge 34 

No.  31.  Abechiu 36 

No.  32 36 

No.  33.  Chipiinuinge 36 

No.  34.  Yugeuinge 38 

No.  35.  Poseuinge,  or  Posege 38 


3 


4 


CONTENTS 


Distribution  of  the  ruins — Continued.  Page 

II.  Ruins  of  the  Chama  drainage — Continued. 

No.  36.  Homajo 39 

No.  37.  Houiri 40 

No.  38.  Sepawi 40 

No.  39.  Cristone  and  other  ruins  above  Abiquiu 40 

III.  Ruins  of  the  Jemez  valley 44 

No.  40 45 

No.  41 45 

No.  42 46 

No.  43.  Patokwa 46 

No.  44.  Astialakwa 47 

No.  45.  Giusewa 47 

No.  46.  Amoxiumqua 48 

No.  47 49 

No.  48 49 

No.  49 51 

Scattered  stone  lodges 51 

Minor  remains  of  antiquity 52 

The  privilege  of  excavation 53 

Appendix  A.  An  act  for  the  preservation  of  American  antiquities 54 

B.  Specimen  record  for  card  catalogue  of  ruins  and  other  archeological 
sites 


54 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Plate  I.  Eastern  margin  of  Jemez  plateau  from  the  pueblo  of  Santa  Clara  . Frontispiece 

II.  Entrances  to  excavated  cliff-dwellings.  _ 

III.  a,  Restoration  of  Tshirege  pueblo. 

b,  Restoration  of  cliff-dwellings,  Tshirege. 

IV.  Petroglyphs  on  the  Puye  cliffs,  Pajarito  park. 

Y.  a,  Cliff-village  of  Puye;  b,  Ruins  of  Puye  pueblo. 

VI.  Tent-rock  cliff-dwellings  near  Otowi  canyon. 

VII.  Maps  of  Tsankawi  and  Tshirege  mesas. 

VIII.  Trees  growing  in  ruins  of  pueblo  and  kiva. 

IX.  a,  Ruin  No.  18;  b,  Pueblo  of  Yapashi. 

X.  a,  Stone  lions  of  Potrero  de  las  Vaeas;  b,  La  C'ueva  Pintada. 

XI.  a,  b,  Gallinas  bad  lands;  c,  d,  Ruins  of  shrine  and  reservoir,  Pajarito  park. 

XII.  Types  of  artifacts  of  stone. 
a,  b,  Hatchets. 

c,  Hammer. 

d,  Maul. 

e, f,  Metate  and  mano. 
g,  It,  Obsidian  flakes. 

XIII.  Types  of  artifacts  of  bone,  shell,  etc. 

a,  b,  c,  d,  Bone  whistles. 

e,  f,  g,  A,  Bone  awls. 

i,  j,  Tc,  l;  Pendants  of  shell. 

XIV.  Types  of  pottery. 

a,  Coiled  ware. 

b,  Bowl  with  glazed  decoration. 

c,  Smooth  black  undecorated  ware. 

d,  Incised  ware. 

e,  Polished  decorated  ware. 

XV.  Mortuary  pottery. 

XVI.  Ceremonial  objects. 

a,  War  god. 

b,  Mountain  lion  fetich. 

c,  d,  Fire  stones. 
e,f,  Medicine  stones. 
g,  A,  Ceremonial  pipes. 

XVII.  Map  of  Jemez  plateau. 

Page 


Fig.  1.  Ground  plan  of  Shufinne 14 

2.  Ground  plan  of  Puye 15 

3.  Ground  plan  of  Navahu 16 

4.  Ground  plan  of  Pininicangwi 16 

5.  Ground  plan  of  Perage 17 

6.  Ground  plan  of  Otowi 19 

7.  Ground  plan  of  Tsankawi 21 


5 


6 


ILLUSTRATIONS 


Page 

Fig.  8.  Ground  plan  of  Sandia 22 

9.  Ground  plan  of  Navawi 23 

10.  Ground  plan  of  Tshirege 24 

11.  Ruins  of  kiva  or  council  chamber,  Tshirege 24 

12.  Ground  plan  of  ruin  no.  17 25 

13.  Ground  plan  of  ruin  no.  18 26 

14.  Ground  plan  of  ruin  no.  19 26 

15.  Ground  plan  of  ruin  no.  20 27 

16.  Ground  plan  of  Poihuuinge 33 

17.  Ground  plan  of  Teeuinge 34 

18.  Ground  plan  of  Kwengyauinge 35 

19.  Ground  plan  of  Abechiu 36 

20.  Ground  plan  of  Chipiinuinge : 37 

21.  Ground  plan  of  Yugeuinge 38 

22.  Ground  plan  of  Poseuinge  (Posege) 39 

23.  Ground  plan  of  Homayo 40 

24.  Ground  plan  of  Houiri 40 

25.  Ground  plan  of  Sepawi 41 

26.  Ground  plan  of  ruined  pueblo  3 miles  west  of  Jemez 45 

27.  Ground  plan  of  ruined  pm^lo  on  Vallecito  Creek 46 

28.  a,  Ground  plan  of  Patokwa 47 

b,  Ground  plan  of  Astialakwa 47 

29.  Ground  plan  of  Amoxiumqua 48 

30.  Ground  plan  of  ruined  pueblo  15  miles  above  Jemez 50 

31.  Ground  plan  of  ruined  pueblo  16  miles  above  Jemez 51 


ANNOUNCEMENT 


The  present  bulletin  is  intended  as  the  first  of  a series  treating  of 
the  antiquities  of  the  public  domain,  and  designed  to  supply  the  very 
general  demand  for  fuller  information  on  this  subject  than  has  yet 
been  furnished.  Recently  widespread  interest  in  these  remains  has 
been  aroused,  partly  as  a result  of  their  rapid  despoliation  by  relic 
hunters  and  inexperienced  explorers,  and  a vigorous  movement  for 
protective  measures  has  been  organized.  From  time  to  time  during 
the  last  few  years  efforts  have  been  made  to  perfect  and  bring  to  the 
attention  of  Congress  a suitable  provision  for  the  preservation  of  the 
antiquities  under  consideration  and  a measure  generally  approved  by 
the  scientific  institutions  of  the  country  has  recently  been  presented 
to  that  body.3  Meanwhile  the  several  departments  of  the  Govern- 
ment having  jurisdiction  over  the  lands  on  which  the  ruins  are  situ- 
ated have  recognized  the  need  of  adequate  protective  measures,  and 
have  taken  decisive  steps  looking  toward  the  preservation  of  the  ruins 
and  their  proper  utilization  in  the  interest  of  history  and  science. 

The  greater  number  of  these  antiquities  are  situated  (1)  on  the 
national  forest  reserves,  (2)  on  the  Indian  reservations,  (3)  on  the 
unappropriated  public  lands.  The  first  class  is  thus  under  the  juris- 
diction of  the  Department  of  Agriculture  and  in  the  immediate  cus- 
todianship of  the  Forest  Service.  The  other  two  classes  are  under 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  Department  of  the  Interior,  the  second  being 
under  the  immediate  custodianship  of  the  Office  of  Indian  Affairs  and 
the  third  under  that  of  the  General  Land  Office.  The  departments 
mentioned  have  issued  stringent  orders  prohibiting  the  excavation 
of  ruins  or  burial  mounds  and  the  carrying  away  of  archeological 
specimens  without  permission  of  the  Secretary  of  the  department 
having  jurisdiction  over  the  lands  involved,  and  also  prohibiting 
traffic  in  specimens  that  have  been  collected  on  the  reservations. 
Furthermore,  the  issuance  of  permits  has  been  restricted  so  as  to 
include  only  competent  archeologists  working  under  the  auspices  and 
for  the  benefit  of  reputable  scientific  or  historical  institutions,  or  organ- 
izations having  adequate  museum  facilities  and  provision  for  perma- 
nent custodianship  of  scientific  collections. 

The  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology  has  been  called  on  from  time 
to  time  by  the  departments  for  information  concerning  the  location 
and  character  of  certain  ruins  and  the  qualifications  of  persons 
and  institutions  to  conduct  investigations  among  them,  and  it  is 


a This  measure  became  a law  in  June,  190U;  for  its  provisions  see  Appendix  A.  page  54. 


8 


ANNOUNCEMENT 


partly  with  the  view  of  supplying  more  fully  the  information  required 
in  the  practical  work  of  supervision  that  the  present  publications  are 
undertaken.  The  researches  of  this  Bureau,  extending  over  the  last 
quarter  of  a century,  have  resulted  in  the  accumulation  of  a vast  body 
of  information  relative  to  prehistoric  remains  of  the  tribes,  and  this 
has  been  embodied  in  reports  most  of  which  are  out  of  print.  Not- 
withstanding the  constant  demand  for  these  works,  it  is  not  possible 
to  republish  them,  and  the  series  of  bulletins  now  contemplated  will 
in  a measure  take  their  place;  at  the  same  time  these  handy  volumes 
will  serve  for  the  use  of  forestry  officers,  Indian  agents  and  police, 
Land  Office  agents,  and  others  having  official  custodianship  of  the 
ruins,  as  well  as  for  persons  desiring  to  visit  the  sites  or  to  undertake 
archeological  researches.  The  bulletins  will  be  prepared  by  the  best 
qualified  authorities  on  the  several  areas  of  which  they  treat,  and  will 
be  accompanied  by  maps  giving  the  sites  already  located  and  afford- 
ing the  means  of  making  corrections  and  additions.  When  suffi- 
ciently perfected,  the  data  embodied  in  these  maps  will  be  incorpo- 
rated in  the  general  archeological  map  of  the  United  States  which  is 
in  course  of  preparation  by  the  Bureau. 

The  present  bulletin,  by  Edgar  L.  Hewett,  embraces  the  very 
important  culture  district  in  New  Mexico  of  which  the  Jemez  plateau 
is  the  central  physiographic  feature.  Mr  Hewett  has  in  hand  a sec- 
ond number,  to  include  the  region  drained  by  the  northern  tributaries 
of  the  Rio  San  Juan  in  Colorado  and  Utah,  an  area  of  which  the 
Mesa  Verde  and  its  wonderful  cliff-dwellings  form  the  center  of  interest. 
Dr  J.  Walter  Fewkesis  engaged  in  the  preparation  of  a third  bulletin 
on  the  vast  area  included  in  the  drainage  of  the  Little  Colorado,  and 
Dr  Walter  Hough  has  taken  up  the  antiquities  of  the  upper  Gila 
valley.  Other  numbers  will  follow  as  rapidly  as  possible,  until  the 
whole  Pueblo  area  is  adequately  presented. 

This  series  of  publications,  however,  must  be  regarded  as  essen- 
tially preliminary,  since  the  available  data,  although  adequate  for  cer- 
tain localities,  are  still  fragmentary,  and  since  much  careful  exploration 
is  necessary  before  the  subject  can  be  monographically  treated.  In 
view  of  these  facts  it  is  most  desirable  that  information  should  be 
obtained  from  every  available  source,  and  the  Bureau  especially 
solicits  the  aid  of  correspondents  in  correcting  the  data  published  and 
in  locating  and  describing  additional  sites  of  all  kinds.  A card  cata- 
logue of  archeological  sites  of  whatsoever  character  is  being  prepared, 
and  cards  indicating  the  nature  of  the  data  required  will  be  furnished 
by  the  Bureau  on  request. a 

W.  H.  Holmes,  Chief. 


a A specimen  record  indicating  the  desired  data  is  presented  in  Appendix  B,  page  54. 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THl  JEMEZ  PLATEAU, 
NEW  MEXICO 


By  Edgar  L.  Hewett 


INTRODUCTORY  NOTE 

The  region  to  which  the  name  Jemez  plateau  is  here  applied  lies  in 
the  northern  central  part  of  New  Mexico  on  the  west  side  of  the  Rio 
Grande  del  Norte.  The  greater  portion  of  the  plateau  is  occupied  by 
the  Jemez  forest  reserve.  Six  Indian  reservations  or  grants  border  on 
or  he  partly  within  its  limits;  these  are  the  San  Juan,  Santa  Clara,  San 
Udefonso,  Cochiti,  Santo  Domingo,  and  Jemez.  Of  the  remaining 
portion  all  that  is  not  embraced  within  private  land  grants  and  small 
holdings  is  public  land.  The  ruins  referred  to  in  this  bulletin  are  dis- 
tributed as  shown  on  the  map  (pi.  xvii).  In  many  cases  locations  are 
only  approximate,  owing  to  the  lack  of  authoritative  surveys.  The 
map  was  prepared  by  the  Forestry  Office,  the  data  being  furnished 
by  the  Forest  Service  of  the  Agricultural  Department,  the  General 
Land  Office  and  the  Geological  Survey  of  the  Interior  Department, 
and  by  the  War  Department,  with  corrections  and  additions  by  the 
author.  The  archeological  features  of  the  map  are  the  residt  of 
investigations  of  the  Bureau  of  American  Ethnology,  and  are  to  be 
revised  and  extended  as  soon  as  the  necessary  data  are  obtained. 

PHYSIOGRAPHY  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 

The  Jemez  plateau  may  be  said  to  extend  from  a point  almost 
directly  w~est  of  Santa  Fe  to  the  Colorado  line,  a distance  of  about  90 
miles.  It  is  limited  on  the  west  by  the  Rio  Puerco  and  has  an  extreme 
breadth  of  about  60  miles  (see  map,  pi.  xvii).  The  area  is  divided 
unequally  by  the  Rio  Chama,  which  flowrs  through  it  from  northwest 
to  southeast.  The  backbone  of  the  northern  or  smaller  portion  is  the 
Tierra  Amarilla  mountains.  With  this  region  we  have  little  to  do  in 
this  paper,  as  it  is  devoid  of  any  conspicuous  ruins  except  in  the 
southern  part,  that  is,  in  the  Rio  Chama  drainage. 

South  of  the  Chama  and  crowning  the  plateau  is  a great  complex 
of  mountains  loosely  known  as  the  Jemez.  There  are  two  important 
ranges.  The  western  forms  the  watershed  between  the  Rio  Puerco 
and  the  Rio  Jemez,  and  the  eastern  forms  the  Jemez-Rio  Grande 
divide. 


9 


10 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[bull.  3'J 


The  leading  topographical  features  of  the  entire  area  are  mountains, 
characterized  by  massive  rounded  contours,  the  highest  peak  attaining 
an  altitude  of  11,200  feet;  flat  mesa  lands  of  an  altitude  of  7,000  to 
8,000  feet,  cut  up  by  innumerable  canyons  from  100  to  1,500  feet  deep, 
the  mesas  sloping  gently  from  the  mountains  to  the  valleys,  on  whose 
borders  they  terminate  in  bold  perpendicular  escarpments  (pi.  i) ; and 
narrow  sandy  valleys  at  altitudes  ranging  from  6,000  to  7,000  feet. 
The  mountains  are  for  the  most  part  well  forested  with  pine,  spruce, 
fir,  and  aspen.  No  peaks  extend  above  the  timber  line,  as  is  popularly 
supposed,  the  baldness  of  their  tops  having  been  caused  by  fires.  The 
mesas  are  rather  thinly  covered  with  pinon,  juniper,  and  cedar  inter- 
spersed with  many  small  open  parks.  The  valleys  naturally  produce 
sage,  chaparral,  and  cactus,  and  can  be  adapted  to  agriculture  and 
fruit-growing  by  means  of  irrigation. 

There  are  but  few  permanent  streams  throughout  this  area.  Pre- 
cipitation ranges  from  10  to  15  inches  annually.  There  are  a high 
percentage  of  cloudless  weather,  little  snow  except  in  the  high  moun- 
tains, excessive  evaporation,  summers  never  excessively  hot  or  win- 
ters very  cold,  an  atmosphere  of  marvelous  clearness  and  dryness,  and 
generally  speaking,  a climate  unsurpassed  for  salubrity.-  The  country 
is  poor  in  game  and  fish,  nor  are  wild  fruits  or  other  natural  food 
products  abundant. 

This  region  became  the  seat  of  a considerable  population  in  prehis- 
toric times  and  almost  innumerable  ruins  of  the  ancient  civilization 
are  distributed  through  the  Pajarito  plateau,  the  Chama  drainage, 
and  the  Jemez  valley. 

The  culture  that  developed  here  was  evidently  molded  largely  by 
the  physiographic  conditions  above  described.  Being  deficient  in 
game  and  other  natural  food  supply,  the  country  did  not  offer  an 
inviting  prospect  to  a nomadic  people,  while,  on  the  other  hand,  the 
adaptability  of  soil  and  climate  to  agriculture,  and  the  natural  protec- 
tion from  enemies  afforded  by  cliffs  and  canyons  rendered  it  attrac- 
tive to  a people  of  sedentary  inclinations.  The  selection  and  prepa- 
ration of  ground  for  agriculture  naturally  tended  to  permanency  of 
abode,  and  the  peculiar  geological  conditions  as  naturally  determined 
the  character  and  construction  of  the  dwellings  of  the  people. 

ARCHEOLOGICAL  REMAINS 

The  ruins  of  prehistoric  habitations,  occurring  in  vast  numbers 
throughout  the  Jemez  plateau,  are  of  two  general  classes,  cliff- 
dwellings  and  pueblos. 

The  cliff-dwellings  of  this  district  are  quite  generally  of  the  exca- 
vated type,  whence  is  derived  the  term  “cavate  dwellings,"  which  is 
sometimes  applied  to  them.  This  type  embraces  a wide  range  of 
domiciles.  The  most  primitive  is  the  natural  open  cave,  formed 
principally  by  wind  erosion  and  only  slightly,  if  at  all.  enlarged  and 


HEWETT] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


11 


shaped  by  excavation  (pi.  11,  a).  A considerable  advance  over  this 
type  is  shown  in  the  wholly  artificial  dwelling  excavated  in  the  per- 
pendicular face  of  the  cliff  (pi.  11,  b),  the  front  wall  being  formed  of 
the  natural  rock  in  situ.  Numerous  variations  occur  as  shown  in 
the  illustrations,  the  most  important  of  which  are  those  with  cased 
doorways  (pi.  11,  c)  and  those  with  front  wholly  or  in  part  of  masonry 
(pi.  ii,  d,  e,  f).  It  is  evident  that  when  in  use  the  majority  of  these 
dwellings  were  rendered  much  more  commodious  by  the  building 
of  porches,  as  shown  in  the  restoration  (pi.  iii,  b)  in  front  of  the 
excavated  rooms.  In  some  cases  complete  houses  were  built  upon 
the  sloping  talus,  as  shown  in  the  restoration  of  Tshirege  (pi.  iii,  a), 
the  excavated  rooms  at  the  back  being  used  mainly  for  storage 
and  burial  crypts.  These  cliff-dwellings  occur  in  vast  numbers  in 
the  southern  faces  of  the  tongue-like  mesas  (potreros)  of  volcanic 
tufa  that  extend  out  from  the  base  of  the  mountains  toward  the  valley 
on  what  is  known  as  the  Pajarito  plateau,  the  table-land  hung  between 
the  Jemez  range  and  the  Rio  Grande.  They  occur  also  in  similar 
formations  in  the  mesas  that  are  drained  by  the  southern  and  western 
tributaries  of  the  Chama.  Occasionally  they  are  found  in  cliffs  with 
eastern  exposures,  but  they  very  rarely  face  either  north  or  west. 

The  pueblo  ruins  are  those  of  the  many-chambered  community 
houses  which  are  found  upon  the  mesa  tops  and  in  valleys  independent 
of  any  support  from  natural  cliffs.  They  exist  in  large  numbers  on  the 
Pajarito  plateau  from  Cochi ti  north  to  the  rim  of  the  table-land  overlook- 
ing the  Chama  valley;  in  the  valleys  of  the  northern  tributaries  of  the 
lower  Chama;  on  the  mesas  both  north  and  south  of  the  upper  Chama, 
particularly  in  the  Gallinas  “bad  lands;”  and  in  the  Jemez  valley. 

The  pueblo  structure  is  invariably  a cluster  of  rooms  or  cells.  There 
are  numerous  variations  of  extension  and  arrangement.  In  some 
cases  the  rooms  are  arranged  irregularly  and  in  others  they  have  a 
definite  alignment  of  common  wall.  “ The  smaller  pueblos  were  but  one 
story  high,  while  the  majority  of  the  large  ones  were  from  two  to  four 
stories.  There  was  a general  tendency  to  build  them  in  quadran- 
gular form.  Many  single-chambered  ruins  are  found  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  pueblos.  These  were  for  the  most  part  simply  camps  or  look- 
outs, similar  to  those  now  used  by  the  Pueblo  Indians  in  summer. 

Petroglyphs  or  rock  pictures  are  numerous  throughout  the  districts, 
especially  so  on  the  Puye  cliffs  in  Pajarito  park  and  in  the  Rio  Grande 
valley  between  La  Joya  and  Embudo.  Fine  specimens  are  to  be 
seen  also  at  the  mouth  of  the  Canyones  overlooking  the  Chama.  The 
illustrations  here  presented  (pi.  iv)  give  a fair  idea  of  the  range  of 
designs.  While  some  of  these  represent  nothing  more  than  idle 
picture-making,  perhaps  most  of  them  are  of  serious  totemic,  legend- 
ary, and  religious  significance. 

a The  accompanying  plans  of  pueblos  represent  only  an  approximation  to  the  arrangement  and 
extent  of  the  rooms. 


12 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[BI  LL.  32 


TIIE  AXCIENT  INHABITANTS 

Naturally  the  first  question  that  arises  in  the  mind  of  every  intelli- 
gent visitor  to  these  cliff-dwellings,  is:  Who  were  the  people  who  built 
and  lived  in  these  peculiar  homes?  It  has  been  customary  to  answer 
that  these  were  simply  the  earlier  homes  of  the  Pueblo  tribes  now 
living  in  the  villages  near  by.  This  answer  must,  at  least,  be  qualified. 
It  was  accepted  by  the  early  explorers  on  the  evidence  of  surface 
appearances  and  the  traditions  of  the  living  Pueblo  Indians.  Subse- 
quent observers  merely  followed  the  lead  of  their  predecessors. 
Extensive  excavations  made  in  recent  years  have  brought  to  light 
more  reliable  evidences.  Large  collections  of  the  ancient  pottery 
have  been  compared  with  that  of  the  modern  Pueblos  and  but  few 
similarities  found  in  form,  color,  mode  of  ornamentation,  and  sym- 
bolism. This  in  itself  would  not  be  conclusive  proof  of  lack  of  identity 
between  the  makers,  but  it  is  supported  by  the  indisputable  evidence 
of  the  anatomical  characters  of  the  people.  The  living  Pueblo 
Indians  are  predominantly  (50  to  75  per  cent)  brachycephalic,  or 
short-headed  people;  while  the  ancient  people  of  the  cliffs,  as  shown 
by  the  examination  of  a large  collection  of  skeletal  remains  excavated 
by  the  writer  at  five  different  sites  on  Pajarito  plateau,  were  practi- 
cally 100  per  cent  dolichocephalic,  or  long-headed.  The  noticeable 
proportion  of  long-headed  people  found  among  the  present  Pueblo 
Indians  probabty  represents  an  infusion  of  blood  from  the  ancient 
cliff-dwelling  tribes.  In  the  light  of  the  mass  of  evidence  now  at  hand 
the  answer  of  the  present  author  to  the  question,  Who  were  the  inhabi- 
tants of  the  cliff-dwellings  and  ancient  pueblos  of  this  plateau?  would 
be  as  follows:  The  ruins  herein  described  were  the  ancient  habitations 
of  Indian  tribes  some  descendants  of  which  are  doubtless  now  living  in 
the  adjacent  valley  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  its  tributaries,  but  most  of 
whom  are  probably  dispersed  widely  over  the  southwest.  In  every 
existing  Tewa  tribe  (San  Juan,  Santa  Clara,  San  Ildefonso,  Nambe, 
and  Tesuque)  it  is  claimed  that  certain  clans  may  be  traced  back 
through  one  or  more  migrations  to  the  ruined  pueblos  and  cliff-villages 
of  the  Pajarito  plateau.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  Iveres  villages 
(Cochiti,  Santo  Domingo,  San  Felipe,  Santa  Ana,  and  Zia),  while  it  is 
known  that  the  earlier  Jemez  people  and  their  kindred  occupied  sites 
farther  up  the  valley  well  into  the  historic  period. 

The  pueblos  and  the  cliff-houses  were  occupied  during  the  same 
period  and  by  the  same  people.  The  age  of  these  ruins  may  be  approxi- 
mately fixed.  The  San  Ildefonso  tribe  has  occupied  its  present  site 
since  before  the  Spanish  conquest,  we  may  say  four  centuries.  On 
the  opposite  side  of  the  Rio  Grande,  a mile  west  of  the  present  San 
Ildefonso,  are  the  ruins  of  Perage.  This  is  the  village  last  occupied 
by  some  of  these  people  prior  to  their  removal  to  Powhoge,  their 


HEWETTj 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


13 


present  site.  Their  traditions  indicate  a residence  at  this  site  of  as 
great  a duration  as  at  their  present  location.  Archeological  evidences 
would  reduce  this  period  somewhat.  It  would  thus  appear  that  the 
San  Ildefonso  have  lived  in  the  valley  for  from  six  to  eight  centuries. 
The  next  earlier  site  of  at  least  one  or  two  clans  of  this  tribe  was  on 
the  plateau,  at  the  great  pueblo  and  cliff-village  of  Otowi,  where  there 
is  every  evidence,  fully  sustained  by  the  traditions  of  the  people,  of 
long-continued  residence.  The  history  of  this  village  is  almost  a repe- 
tition of  that  of  each  one  of  the  Tewa  villages.  It  appears  that  the 
abandonment  of  the  cliff  and  pueblo  villages  of  the  plateau  occurred 
from  six  hundred  to  eight  hundred  years  ago  as  a result  of  climatic 
modifications  by  reason  of  which  the  hardships  of  living  at  these  sites 
became  unendurable.  The  transition  from  plateau  to  valley  life  was 
not  necessarily  sudden.  There  is  no  evidence  of  any  great  simultane- 
*ous  movement  from  all  parts  of  the  plateau.  The  change  was  proba- 
bly accomplished  within  a generation  or  two,  one  village  after  another 
removing  to  the  valley  or  to  more  distant  places,  as  the  desiccation 
of  the  plateau  proceeded.  There  is  at  present  not  a single  stream  on 
the  east  side  of  the  Jernez  plateau  between  the  Chama  and  the  Jemez 
that  carries  its  water  to  the  Rio  Grande  throughout  the  year.  The 
ancient  Tewa  people  were,  as  are  their  modern  successors,  agricul- 
turists; hence,  their  living  was  dependent  on  the  water  supply.  Only 
the  most  primitive  style  of  irrigation  was  practised  and  there  is  every 
evidence  that  the  region  was  never  rich  in  game  or  natural  food  prod- 
ucts of  any  kind. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  the  foregoing  statements  refer  to  the 
period  of  continuous  residence  on  the  plateau.  There  have  been  from 
time  to  time  in  comparatively  recent  years  sporadic  reoccupations  of 
these  ancient  villages  by  clans  from  the  valley,  as  that  of  Puye  by  the 
Santa  Clara  Indians,  and  of  Kotyiti,  or  Pueblo  Viejo,  above  the  Canada 
de  Cochi ti,  by  the  Keres  after  the  Pueblo  rebellion  of  1680.  These 
reoccupations  were  attended  with  considerable  rebuilding  and  repair- 
ing of  ancient  structures;  thus  may  be  accounted  for  the  improved 
irrigation  system  at  Puye,  which  is  a work  of  the  last  occupation  and 
far  in  advance  of  anything  that  was  known  to  the  ancient  inhabitants 
of  any  part  of  the  plateau. 

DISTRIBUTION  OF  THE  RUINS 

The  ruins  of  the  entire  area  considered  in  this  bulletin  are  distributed 
in  three  geographical  groups: 

I.  Ruins  of  the  Pajarito  plateau. 

II.  Ruins  of  the  Chama  drainage. 

III.  Ruins  of  the  Jemez  valley. 


14 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[BOLL.  32 


I.  Ruins  of  the  Pajarito  Plateau 

This  name,  the  Pajarito  plateau,  proposed  by  the  writer  some  years 
ago  and  now  generally  adopted,  is  applied  to  the  table-land  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  Jemez  mountains.  The  name  is  usually  confined 
to  the  region  lying  east  of  the  foothills,  winch  is  bordered  on  the  east 
by  the  Rio  Grande,  on  the  north  by  the  Rio  Chama,  and  on  the  south  by 
the  Canada  de  Cochiti.  It  is  roughly  crescent-shaped  and  is  about 
fifty  miles  long  with  a width  varying  from  ten  to  fifteen  miles.  It  is 
boldly  defined  on  all  sides.  A considerable  portion  of  the  plateau 
was  covered  originally  by  a sheet  of  volcanic  tufa,  varying  in  thick- 
ness from  100  to  1,000  feet.  The  source  of  this  material  was  the  now 
extinct  volcanic  cones  of  the  Jemez  range.  Rudely  dressed  from  the 
somewhat  regular  blocks  into  which  it  is  readily  broken,  it  furnished 
a durable  and  easily  worked  building  material  for  the  primitive  inhabit-' 

ants  of  the  plateau;  while  caves,  both 
natural  and  artificial,  afforded  comfort- 
able and  secure  abodes  with  the  expendi- 
ture of  but  little  labor.  In  considering 
the  ruins  of  this  area  it  will  be  convenient 
to  defer  the  description  of  the  succession 
of  large  pueblos  which  occupy  the  north- 
ern rim  of  the  plateau,  including  them 
with  the  group  situated  in  the  Chama 
drainage. 

The  Pajarito  plateau  group  begins  then 
with  the  ruins  in  the  vicinity  of  Santa 
Clara  creek  (see  map,  pi.  xvii),  a few  miles 
west  of  the  Indian  village  of  Santa  Clara. 
This  section  was  visited  and  briefly  described  by  Stevenson,  Powell, 
and  Bandelier  in  the  early  eighties.  It  has  been  made  the  subject 
of  numerous  popular  articles,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  those 
of  Lummis  and  Wallace.  All  the  pueblos  on  the  Pajarito  plateau 
were  built  of  stone.  Only  the  most  conspicuous  ruins  can  be  pointed 
out  in  this  paper.  A multitude  of  “ small  house  ” pueblos  and  innumer- 
able cliff-dwellings  of  minor  importance  are  passed  without  notice. 

No.  1.  Shujinne  (fig.  1). — This  is  a small  pueblo  ruin  with  an 
accompanying  cliff-village,  situated  on  a high  mesa  which  rises  ab- 
ruptly above  the  plateau  on  the  north  side  of  Santa  Clara  canyon, 
about  ten  miles  west  of  the  Santa  Clara  village.  The  site  is  a most 
picturesque  one,  visible  in  some  directions  from  a distance  of  twenty- 
five  miles.  The  pueblo  was  rather  inferior  in  construction  and  is 
reduced  to  low  mounds.  The  cliff-dwellings  are  quite  generally 
broken  down. 

No.  2.  Puye. — This  settlement  consisted  of  the  large  pueblo  on  the 


Fig.  1.— Ground  i lan  of  Shufinne. 


HEWETT] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


15 


top  of  Puye  mesa  (pi.  v,  b)  and  an  extensive  tributary  cliff-village 
(pi.  v,  a).  The  pueblo  was  a huge  quadrangular  structure  (fig.  2), 
next  to  Tshirege  the  largest  in  the  park.  It  was  the  most  compact,  the 
most  regular  of  all  the  large  pueblos.  The  quadrangle  had  but  one 
entrance,  this  being  in  the  eastern  side,  near  the  southeastern  corner. 
The  four  sides  are  so  connected  as  to  form  practically  one  structure, 
though  it  is  not  to  be  inferred  that  this  was  all  built  at  one  time.  It 
presents  no  new  constructive  architectural  features. 

In  some  rooms  of  this  building  there  are  evidences  of  occupancy 
after  once  having  been  abandoned.  Doors  and  windows  previously 
used  are  found  closed  with  masonry  and  plastered  over.  The  last 
floor  is  laid  upon  a foot  or  more  of  debris  accumulated  upon  an  original 
floor  and  not  removed  in  the  process  of  remodeling.  The  pottery 
between  these  two  floors  is  noticeably  different  from  that  above  the 
upper  floor.  Round  kivas,  mostly 
subterranean,  are  found  both  inside 
and  outside  the  court. 

The  cliff-village  at  Puye  was  a 
very  extensive  one.  The  mesa  is  a 
mile  and  a quarter  in  length  and  a 
large  portion  of  the  south  face  is 
literally  honeycombed  with  dwell- 
ings. A ledge  midway  up  the  face 
of  the  cliff  divides  it  into  two  parts. 

In  some  places  the  lower  part  con- 
tains three  levels  of  dwellings,  the 
bottom  series  being,  in  many  in- 
stances, below  the  talus.  The  dwell- 
ings above  the  ledge  are  more 
scattered,  but  are  also  disposed  in 
three  levels.  They  are  not  generally  so  well  constructed  as  those  in 
the  lower  part  and  are  in  a more  ruinous  condition.  There  is  rarely 
communication  between  dwellings  in  different  levels ; when  such  con- 
nection exists  it  appears  to  be  accidental.  The  porches  illustrated  in 
plate  iii,  b,  were  a prevalent  feature  here.  Two  round  excavated 
kivas  are  found  in  a ledge  in  front  of  the  cliff.  A number  of  caves 
of  unusual  size  for  this  locality  evidently  served  the  purpose  of  kivas 
for  the  inhabitants  of  the  cliff-village. 

No.  3.  (Jhipiwi. — This  is  a small  pueblo  of  imperfect  quadrangular 
form  situated  on  a low  mesa  about  two  miles  west  and  a little  south  of 
Puye.  It  belongs  to  the  older  type  of  pueblos  and  was  one  of  several 
minor  villages,  including  Shufinne,  that  are  said  to  have  been  absorbed 
into  Puye.  An  extensive  cliff-village,  consisting  mainly  of  open-front 
dwellings,  occupies  the  southern  exposure  of  the  mesa  on  which  this 
pueblo  is  located. 


Fig.  2. — Ground  plan  of  Puyd. 


16 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[bull'  32 


iVo.  4-  Navahu. — In  the  second  valley  south  of  the  great  pueblo 
and  cliff-village  of  Puye  is  a small  pueblo  ruin  known  to  the  Tewa 
Indians  as  Navahu,  this  being,  as  they  claim,  the  original  name  of  the 
village.  This  particular  pueblo  was  well  situated  for  agriculture, 
there  being  a considerable  acreage  of  tillable  land  near  by,  far  more 

than  this  small  population  would  have  util- 
ized.  The  old  trail  across  the  neck  of  the 
mesa  to  the  north  is  worn  hip-deep  in  the 
| rock  by  the  attrition  of  human  feet,  showing 

\ | f ^ constant  long-continued  use.  I infer  that 

| Si  here  were  the  fields  not  only  of  the  people  of 
J.  Navahu,  hut  also  of  the  more  populous  set- 

m***®*^'  tlements  beyond  the  great  mesa  to  the  north, 

120  feet  where  tillable  land  is  wanting.  The  Tewa 

Fig.  3. — Ground  plan  of  Navahu.  ° 

Indians  assert  that  the  name  Navahu  re- 
fers to  the  large  area  of  cultivated  lands.  This  suggests  an  identity 
with  Navajo,  which  Fray  Alonso  de  Benavides,  in  his  Memorial  on 
New  Mexico  published  in  1630,  says  signifies  “great  planted  fields.”- 
The  pueblo  is  reduced  to  a mound  (sketch  plan,  fig.  3).° 

No.  5.  Pininicangwi  (“place  of  the  corn-flour”  ). — This  is  a pueblo 
considerably  smaller  than  Navahu,  situated  in  the  same  valley  about 
a mile  and  a half  farther  from  the  mountains.  It  was  built  in  the 
form  of  a complete  quadrangle  with  a single  opening  on  the  east  side 
(sketch  plan,  fig.  4).  There  was  a kiva  in  the 

southeast  corner  of  the  court.  The  village  was  w IGP.T.....  IT  . 

situated  on  a rounded  knoll  about  100  yards 
south  of  the  arroyo. 

No.  6.  Chupadero. — This  does  not  refer  to  WMm 

arty  single  site,  but  to  a number  of  cliff-  f. f ly,,,,, 
villages  grouped  within  and  about  the  Chupa-  | 1 

dero  canyon.  Here  is  a great  network  of  0 tkpxr***  fs 
deep  gorges  affording  exceptional  facilities  for  | 

retreat  from  enemies.  There  is  no  pueblo  ruin 
of  any  considerable  magnitude  in  this  sec- 
tion  and  the  cliff-dwellings,  numbering  many 

, , , » . , , Fig.  4.— Ground  plan  of  Pinini- 

hundreds,  are  of  a quite  temporary  character.  cangwi. 

No.  7.  Perage. — This  ruin  is  not  on  the 
plateau.  It  is  situated  on  level  ground  in  the  valley  a few  rods  from 
the  west  bank  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  a mile  west  of  the  Indian 
village  of  San  Ildefonso.  It  is  included  here  because  of  its  relation  to 
the  ruins  on  the  plateau,  which  rise  in  huge  escarpments  of  conglom- 
erate a half  mile  to  the  west. 

This  is  the  site  occupied  by  certain  clans  of  the  Powhoge  (San  Ilde- 
fonso) Indians  prior  to  removal  to  their  present  location,  which 


a See  Uewett  in  American  Anthropologist,  v.  viii,  no.  1,  p.  193,  1906. 


HEWETT] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


17 


occurred  some  time  before  the  Spanish  invasion.  It  was  the  first 
valley  site  occupied  by  them  on  coming  down  from  the  pueblo  and 
cliff- villages  of  Otowi,  and  illustrates  their  first  efforts  in  building 
entire  house-walls  of  adobe.  Prior  to  this  time  adobe  had  been  used 


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Fig.  5. — Ground  plan  of  Perage. 

by  them  simply  as  plaster.  This  village  consisted  of  twelve  sections 
(see  plan,  fig.  5),  four  of  which  (sec.  a,  h,  k,  l)  were  completely  detached, 
two  (sec.  i,  j ) joined  together  in  one  building,  and  the  remaining  six 
(sec.  b,  c.  d,  e,  /,  g)  connected,  forming  the  main  nucleus  of  the  village 
8806— No.  32—06 2 


18 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[BULL.  32 


and  inclosing  two  large  courts.  There  are  remains  of  three  circular 
subterranean  kivas  in  the  village.  Excavations  at  the  site  disclose 
no  traces  of  Spanish  iniluence.  The  pottery  is  more  closely  related 
to  that  of  Otowi  than  it  is  to  that  of  the  present  San  Ildefonso. 

No.  8.  Otowi. — About  five  miles  west  of  the  point  where  the  Rio 
Grande  enters  White  Rock  canyon  are  the  remains  of  the  extensive 
prehistoric  settlement  of  Otowi.  To  reach  it  one  ascends  the  mesa  by 
following  up  the  Alamo  canyon  from  its  confluence  with  the  Guages. 
The  toj)  of  the  mesa  is  reached  at  the  head  of  that  part  of  Alamo  can- 
yon known  as  the  Black  Gorge.  The  first  canyon  entering  the  Alamo 
from  the  north  above  this  point  is  Otowi  canyon.  Following  this  up 
for  about  two  miles,  a point  is  reached  where  the  long  narrow  potrero 
bounding  the  canyon  on  the  north  is  entirely  cut  out  for  a distance  of 
nearly  a mile,  thus  throwing  into  one  squarish,  open  park  the  width  of 
two  small  canyons  and  the  formerly  intervening  mesa.  From  the  midst 
of  this  little  park,  roughly  a mile  square,  a view  of  surpassing  beauty 
is  to  be  had.  Half  a mile  to  the  south  the  huge  mesa  which  is 
terminated  by  Rincon  del  Pueblo  bounds  the  valley  with  a high 
unbroken  line,  perhaps  500  feet  above  the  dry  arroyo  at  the  bottom. 
The  same  distance  to  the  north  is  the  equally  high  and  more  abrupt 
Otowi  mesa,  and  east  and  west  an  equal  distance  and  to  about  an 
equal  height  rise  the  wedge-like  terminal  buttes  which  define  this 
great  gap  in  the  middle  mesa.  Toward  the  four  corners  one  looks 
into  beautifully  wooded  gorges.  The  whole  area  is  well  forested. 

The  parallel  canyons  running  through  this  glade  are  prevented  from 
forming  a confluence  by  a high  ridge,  the  remnant  of  the  intervening 
mesa.  Upon  the  highest  point  of  this  ridge  is  located  a large  pueblo 
ruin  which  formed  the  nucleus  of  the  Otowi  settlement.  In  every 
direction  are  clusters  of  excavated  cliff-dwellings  of  contemporaneous 
occupation  and  on  a parallel  ridge  to  the  south  are  the  ruins  of  one 
pueblo  of  considerable  size  and  of  seven  small  ones,  all  antedating  the 
main  Otowi  settlement. 

Two  types  of  excavated  cliff-dwellings  are  found  at  Otowi.  The 
first  (pi.  ii,  a)  is  the  open-front  dwelling,  usually,  though  not  always, 
single-chambered— in  most  cases  a natural  cave  enlarged  and  shaped 
by  excavation. 

The  second  type  (pi.  n,  b)  is  wholly  artificial,  with  closed  front  of 
the  natural  rock  in  situ.  Cliff-dwellings  of  this  type  are  usually  mul- 
tiple chambered,  with  floors  below  the  level  of  the  threshold;  they 
have  generally  a crude  fireplace  beside  the  doorway,  but  are  seldom 
provided  with  a smoke  vent.  The  rooms  are  commonly  rectangular 
and  well  shaped,  with  floors  plastered  always,  and  walls  usually  so 
to  a height  of  three  or  four  feet.  The  front  walls  are  from  one  to  two 
feet  thick.  In  some  cases  a little  masonry  has  been  used  in  the  form 
of  casing  about  the  doorways.  In  a number  of  instances  porches 


hewett] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


19 


were  built  over  the  doorways,  but  nowhere  were  complete  houses 
built  against  the  cliff,  as  at  Tshirege. 

For  the  most  part  the  dwellings  are  found  in  clusters  and  at  two 
general  levels,  that  is,  at  the  top  of  the  long  steep  slope  of  the  talus, 
and  again  in  the  face  of  a second  terrace  far  above  the  talus  and 
exceedingly  difficult  of  access. 

From  about  half  a mile  to  a mile  above  the  main  pueblo  of  Otowi  is  a 
cliff-village  that  is  unique.  Here  is  a cluster  of  conical  formations  of 
white  tufa,  some  of  which  attain  a height  of  thirty  feet  (pi.  vi). 
These  are  popularly  called  “ tent  rocks.”  They  are  full  of  caves,  both 
natural  and  artificial,  some  of  which  have  been  utilized  as  human 
habitations.  These  dwellings  are  structurally  identical  with  those 
found  in  the  cliffs.  They  present  the  appearance  of  enormous  bee- 
hives. 


Section  B.  Section  C Section D 


Fig.  6. — Ground  plan  of  Otowi. 

The  main  pueblo  ruin  at  Otowi  differs  in  plan  from  any  other  in 
this  region  (fig.  6).  It  consists  of  a cluster  of  five  houses,  situated 
on  sloping  ground  and  connected  at  one  end  by  a wall,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  house  marked  e on  the  plan,  which  was  detached.  These 
were  terraced  structures,  probably  almost  an  exact  counterpart  of  the 
present  terraced  houses  at  Taos,  though  perhaps  somewhat  smaller 
and  containing  a less  number  of  stories.  No  one  of  the  houses  at 
Otowi  had  more  than  four  stories  and  none  fewer  than  two.  The 
ground  plan  here  shown  is  only  approximately  correct.  A drawing 
showing  the  exact  alignment  of  walls  can  not  be  made  until  many  tons 
of  stone  are  removed.  Accordingly  some  conjectural  work  was  nec- 
essary in  making  the  plan.  Altogether  the  five  houses  contained 
about  450  rooms  on  the  ground  floor.  The  number  of  superimposed 


20 


BUREAU  OE  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[BULL.  32 


rooms  is  largely  a matter  of  con  j ecture ; the  writer  estimates  this  at  250, 
making  a total  of  about  700  rooms. 

There  were  ten  circular  kivas  at  Otowi,  all  subterranean  and  outside 
of  the  walls  of  the  buildings  with  two  exceptions  (see  plan,  fig.  6, 
sec.  a,  e).  Kivas  within  the  pueblo  walls  were  unusual  in  the  pueblos 
of  Pajarito  plateau.  They  exist  in  the  great  ruin  at  the  base  of  Peder- 
nal  peak  and  are  found  also  in  the  older  and  smaller  houses. 

A reservoir,  which  doubtless  supplied  water  for  drinking  purposes 
at  times,  was  placed,  as  was  often  the  case  in  both  ancient  and  modern 
pueblos,  so  as  to  receive  the  drainage  from  the  village. 

The  traditions  of  Otowi  are  fairly  well  preserved.  It  was  the  oldest 
village  of  Powlioge  clans  of  which  they  have  definite  traditions  at 
San  Ildefonso.  They  hold  in  an  indefinite  way  that  prior  to  the  build- 
ing of  this  village  they  occupied  scattered  " small  house  ” ruins  on  the 
adjacent  mesas,  and  they  claim  that  when  the  mesa  life  grew  unbear- 
able from  lack  of  water,  and  removal  to  the  valley  became  a necessity, 
a detachment  from  Otowi  founded  the  pueblo  of  Perage  in  the  valley 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Rio  Grande  about  a mile  west  of  their  present 
village  site. 

No.  9. — This  is  a small  pueblo  ruin  in  Otowi  canyon  just  across  the 
arro}'o  about  300  yards  south  of  Otowi  pueblo.  It  is  situated  on  top 
of  a narrow  ridge  which  runs  parallel  with  the  one  on  which  the  large 
ruin  stands.  The  stones  of  the  building  are  smaller  and  the  construc- 
tion work  is  cruder.  The  building  consists  of  one  solid  rectangle  with 
one  kiva  within  the  court.  Seven  other  small  pueblo  ruins  or  clan 
houses  are  scattered  along  the  same  ridge  to  the  west  within  a distance 
of  one  mile,  all  apparently  belonging  to  this  settlement. 

No.  10.  Tsankawi  (Tewa,  "place  of  the  round  cactus”). — About 
two  miles  southeast  of  Otowi  is  the  ruin  of  Tsankawi,  the  most  pic- 
turesquely situated  of  any  settlement  of  primitive  people  ever  seen 
by  the  writer,  with  the  exception  of  Chipiinuinge  at  the  base  of  Peder- 
nal  peak.  It  is  a veritable  "sky  city.”  From  the  top  of  Tsankawi 
mesa  one  looks  upon  a stupendous  panorama — the  Jemez  range  on  the 
west;  on  the  eastern  horizon,  a hundred  miles  of  the  lofty  Santa  Fe 
range;  glimpses  of  the  Rio  Grande  and  its  fertile  valley  through  a cleft 
some  five  miles  away,  beyond  which  lies  a dreary  sand-waste;  and 
near  at  hand  in  every  direction  huge  yellow  volcanic  mesas  and  pro- 
found depths  of  wooded  canyons.  The  site  was  chosen  entirely  for 
its  defensive  character  and  is  an  exceptionally  strong  one. 

The  builders  of  Tsankawi  kept  to  the  orthodox  rectangular  plan,  as 
shown  in  figure  7.  The  masonry  is  in  no  respect  different  from  that  of 
Otowi.  There  were  ten  kivas  at  Tsankawi — a large  number  for  the 
population,  which  probably  never  exceeded  300  to  400  people,  although 
this  would  be  considerably  increased  if  we  should  count  the  population 


hewett] 


ANTIQUITIES  OE  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


21 


of  the  cliff-village  in  the  south  face  of  the  mesa.  Tsankawi  was  a 
composite  pueblo,  consisting  of  four  virtually  independent  houses. 
The  ground  plan  of  this  pueblo  embraces  about  200  rooms.  The 
sections  were  each  probably  three  stories  high.  Plate  vii,  a,  illus- 
trates the  entire  development  of  this  village. 


Fig.  7.— Ground  plan  of  Tsankawi. 


No.  11. — This  ruin  is  situated  in  Canyon  de  los  Alamos  on  a high 
ridge  running  parallel  with  the  stream  on  its  south  side.  It  is  about 
three-quarters  of  a mile  west  of  Tsankawi  and  its  inhabitants  even- 
tually merged  with  the  population  of  that  village.  The  settlement 
consisted  of  one  rectangular  pueblo  of  considerable  size  and  a number 
of  small  clan  houses  scattered  along  the  ridge  to  the  west  for  about 
half  a mile.  It  belongs  to  the  older  class  of  ruins. 


22 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[bull.  32 


No.  12. — This  is  a small  pueblo  ruin  of  the  older  type,  situated  on  a 
lower  bench  just  north  of  Tsankawi  mesa,  about  half  a mile  south  of 
the  Alamo.  The  walls  are  entirely  reduced.  This  site  belongs  to 
the  same  class  and  epoch  as  no.  9 and  11. 

No.  13.  Sandia. — This  village  is  situated  on  a high  mesa  between 
the  Sandia  and  Bear  canyons  and  is  one  of  the  most  commanding 

The  pueblo  was  small,  compactly  built,  form- 
ing a complete  rectangle  (fig.  8).  It  was 
probably  two  stories  high.  The  regularity  of 
the  structure  was  broken  by  the  building  of 
a number  of  one-story  rooms  against  the  east 
and  north  sides.  There  is  one  kiva  inside  the 
court.  In  the  face  of  the  mesa  to  the  south 
is  a cliff-village  which  includes  some  of  the 
finest  specimens  of  this  type  of  cliff-dwelling 
within  the  writer’s  personal  knowledge.  They 
are  unusually  well  preserved.  Many  have 
the  plastered  door -casings  intact.  Some 
doorways  have  wooden  casings  still  in 
place.  The  rooms  are  well  constructed  and  conveniently  arranged, 
and,  in  connection  with  anterior,  open  rooms,  the  evidences  of 
which  are  plain,  must  have  formed  commodious  and  comfortable 
homes. 

No.  11,..  Navawi  (“  place  of  the  hunting  trap”). — Beginning  about  a 
mile  and  a half  south  of  Tsankawi,  the  aspect  of  the  country  changes. 
From  the-Pajarito  canyon  to  Rito  de  los  Frijoles,  a distance  of  perhaps 
ten  miles,  the  high  abrupt  narrow  tongue-like  mesas  protruding  toward 
the  river  with  broad  timbered  valleys  between  are  replaced  by  one 
great  table-land,  the  Mesa  del  Pajarito,  which  at  first  sight  appears 
to  be  one  continuous  expanse  only  partially  covered  with  pifion, 
cedar,  and  juniper.  It  is,  however,  deeply  cut  at  frequent  intervals 
by  narrow  and  absolutely  impassable  canyons.  Toward  the  northern 
limit  of  this  level  expanse,  about  two  and  a half  miles  southeast  of 
Tsankawi,  is  situated  the  ruin  of  Navawi.  It  belongs  to  the  same 
class  and  epoch  as  Otowi,  Tsankawi,  and  Tshirege.  It  consists  of  two 
large  buildings  about  200  yards  apart  (tig.  9),  several  clan  houses  on 
the  level  mesa  near  by,  and  a cliff-village  of  considerable  extent  in  the 
face  of  the  low  mesa  to  the  south  and  west.  On  the  narrow  neck  of 
mesa  about  300  yards  west  of  the  pueblo,  at  the  convergence  of  four 
trails,  is  a game-trap  (nava)  from  which  the  village  takes  its  name. 
This  is  one  of  a number  of  pitfalls  that  have  been  discovered  at  points 
in  this  region  where  game  trails  converged.  One  of  the  best  of  these 
is  that  at  Navawi.  It  was  so  placed  that  game  driven  down  the  mesa 
from  toward  the  mountains  or  up  the  trail  from  either  of  two  side 


sites  in  Pajarito  park. 


Fig.  8. — Ground  plan  of  Sandia. 


hewett] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


23 


canyons  could  hardly  fail  to  be  entrapped.  The  trap  is  an  excavation 
in  the  rock  which  could  have  been  made  only  with  great  difficulty,  as 
the  cap  of  tufa  is  here  quite  hard.  The  pit  is  bottle-shaped,  except 
that  the  mouth  is  oblong.  It  is  15  feet  deep  and  about  8 feet  in  diam- 
eter at  the  bottom.  The  mouth  of  the  pit  is  about  six  feet  in  length 
by  four  in  breadth.  This  trap  has  been  used  in  modern  times  by  the 
San  Ildefonso  Indians. 


Fig.  9. — Ground  plan  of  Navawi. 


No.  15.  Tshirege(Tew&,  “a  bird;”  Spanish, pa j a rito,  “small bird”). — 
This  great  ruin  is  situated  on  a low  bluff  on  the  north  side  of  the  Paja- 
rito  about  six  miles  west  of  the  Rio  Grande.  It  is  on  the  northern 
edge  of  the  great  Mesa  del  Pajarito,  described  in  connection  with 
Navawi.  The  possibilities  for  agriculture  in  this  vicinity  were 
considerable  during  the  time  when  the  country  was  adequately 
watered. 

Tshirege  was  the  largest  pueblo  in  the  Pajarito  district,  and  with 
the  extensive  cliff-village  clustered  about  it,  the  largest  aboriginal 
settlement,  ancient  or  modern,  in  the  Pueblo  region  of  which  the 
writer  has  personal  knowledge,  with  the  exception  of  Zuni.  The  ruin 
shows  a ground -plan  of  upward  of  600  rooms  (fig.  10).  Mr  K.  M. 
Chapman  has  prepared  in  water  color  a restoration  of  the  pueblo  with 
a small  portion  of  the  tributary  cliff -village;  a photograph  of  this  is 
shown  in  plate  iii,  a.  This  is  believed  to  be  quite  true  to  history. 
Plate  vii,  b is  a map  of  the  entire  mesa  top  on  which  this  ruin  is  situ- 
ated and  illustrates  the  development  of  a typical  pueblo  of  the  pre- 


[BULL.  32 


24 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


historic  period.  There  are  ten  kivas  in  and  about  Tshirege  (one  not 
shown  in  plan), all  of  the  circular  subterranean  type  (see  fig.  11).  A 


defensive  wall  extended  from  the  southwest  corner  of  the  main  build- 
ing to  the  rim  of  the  cliff  150  feet  away.  On  the  face  of  the  cliff 


Fig.  11.- 


-Ruina  of  kiva,  or  council  chamber,  Tshirege  (from  a painting  by  Chapman). 


below  is  one  of  the  best 
It  is  a representation  of 


petroglyphs . to  be  found  in  the  Southwest, 
the  “plumed  serpent”  about  seven  feet  in 


HEWETT] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


25 


length,  etched  on  the  rock  by  pecking  with  a stone  implement.  The 
principal  cemetery  of  the  village  was  located  in  the  southwest  corner 
of  the  court  and  many  of  the  excavated  rooms  in  the  cliff  walls  served 
as  burial  vaults. 

The  cliff-village  along  the  side  of  the  mesa,  shown  by  restoration  in 
plate  hi,  a,  was  the  most  extensive  group  of  pueblo-like  cliff -dwellings 
of  the  kind  of  which  the  author  has  any  knowledge.  The  cluster 
extends  along  the  cliff  for  three-cpiarters  of  a mile  and  represents 
accessions  from  many  small  pueblos.  Tsliirege  is  said  to  have  been 
the  last  of  all  the  villages  of  Pajarito  park  to  be  abandoned.  A 
limited  supply  of  water  can  still  be  obtained  at  almost  any  season  at 
the  spring  in  the  arroyo  a quarter  of  a mile  away,  and  during  wet  sea- 
sons the  Pajarito  carries  a little  water  past  this  point.  The  remains 
of  a small  reservoir  (pi.  hi,  a)  are  to 
be  seen  on  the  mesa  top  a few  yards 
north  of  the  main  ruin. 

No.  16. — This  is  a small  ruin  con- 
sisting of  a single  quadrangle  situated 
about  three  miles  west  of  Tsliirege, 
just  south  of  the  abandoned  Buckman 
sawmill  road.  It  belongs  to  the  older 
class  of  ruins  and  presents  no  features 
of  especial  interest.  A short  distance 
to  the  west  is  a game  pit,  similar  to 
the  one  at  Xavawi. 

No.  17. — In  the  midst  of  a beauti- 
ful open  park,  about  three  miles  southeast  of  the  abandoned  saw- 
mill, is  an  important  ruin  (fig.  12)  consisting  of  three  compact  con- 
nected rectangles.  No  walls  are  visible  above  the  debris,  but  on 
clearing  away  the  loose  stone,  well-preserved  plastered  walls  eight 
feet  in  height  are  disclosed.  Numerous  small  clan  houses  are  scat- 
tered about  near  by.  A few  yards  to  the  east  is  the  hollow  of  a large 
kiva  in  which  a fine  pine  tree  is  growing  (pi.  vm,  b).  Xot  far  from 
tins  ruin  are  the  remains  of  a large  circular  inclosure  built  of  blocks 
of  tufa  set  on  edge,  doubtless  an  ancient  shrine.  (PI.  xi,  c.) 

No.  18. — Less  than  a mile  west  of  no.  17  on  a high  point  at  the  con- 
fluence of  two  very  deep  gorges  is  the  best -preserved  ruin  in  this 
region  (pi.  ix,  a).  The  Avails  stand  in  places  eight  feet  above  the 
debris.  Great  pine  trees  are  groAA'ing  within  the  rooms.  There  is 
every  evidence  that  these  mesas  have  been  forested  since  the  abandon- 
ment of  the  pueblos  (pi.  vm,  a,  b ; pi.  ix,  a).  This  ruin  is  almost 
inaccessible,  except  from  the  AA’est.  It  is  not  less  than  800  feet  aboA'e 
the  AAaters  of  the  Rito  del  Bravo,  Avhich  it  overlooks.  The  ground 
plan  (fig.  13)  is  very  irregular. 


Fig.  12. — Ground  plan  of  ruin  no.  17. 


26 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[BULL.  32 


No.  19  (fig.  14). — A small  pueblo  ruin  in  the  beautiful  wooded  park 
just  south  of  the  Rito  del  Bravo  and  a mile  north  of  Rito  de  los 
Frijoles.  It  presents  no  features  of  particular  interest.  Near  by  are 


many  small  clan  houses.  One  may  ride  for  some  miles  along  this 
mesa  and  never  be  out  of  sight  of  ruins  of  this  class. 

No.  20  (fig.  15). — This  is  about 
the  largest  ruin  between  Tshirege 
and  the  Rito  de  los  Frijoles,  with 
the  exception  of  no.  17.  It 
consists  of  one  compact  rectan- 
gle. The  debris  of  fallen  walls 
is  perhaps  eight  feet  high.  A 
large  inclosure  walled  with  stone 
surrounds  the  southern  and  east- 
ern sides  of  the  pueblo.  This 
site  overlooks  the  deep  gorge 
of  the  Bravo  to  the  north,  and 
south  a few  rods  is  another 
deep  canyon.  The  site  is  ap- 
proached by  an  ancient  trail  from  the  west. 

No.  21.  Tyuonyi. — When  we  descend  the  southern  rim  of  Mesa  del 
Pajarito  into  the  Rito  de  los  Frijoles,  we  enter  upon  what  is  claimed  to 
be  ancient  Keres  ground,  though  its  identity  as  such  can  not  be  said 
to  be  established.  From  here  south  to  Canada  de  Cochiti  the  country 
again  assumes  the  character  of  that  between  the  Santa  Clara  and 


100  FF€T 


hewett] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


27 


Pajarito  canyons.  Here  the  potreros  reach  stupendous  heights  and 
the  canyons  correspondingly  great  depths.  A thorough  knowledge  of 
Indian  trails  is  all  that  will  enable  one  to  penetrate  this  labyrinth. 
For  description  of  the  remarkable  antiquities  from  Rito  de  los  Frijoles 
to  Canada  de  Cochit  i the  writer  can  do  no  better  than  to  quote  Mr 
A.  F.  Bandelier,  the  pioneer  archeologist  of  this  region.  The  pho- 
tographs here  reproduced  were  made  on  the  present  author’s  third 
field  trip  to  this  section  in  the  summer  of  1905.  Mr  Bandelier 


»o  rccr 


says : a 

“ From  the  southern  edge  of  the  Ziro-Ka-uash,  or  Mesa  del  Paja- 
rito, we  look  down  into  the  Rito  as  into  a narrow  valley  several  miles 
long  and  closed  in  the  west  by  rocky  ledges,  over  which  the  stream 
descends  to  the  bottom  lands  of 
the  Rito.  Through  these  it  flows 
for  several  miles  as  a gushing 
brook,  enlivened  by  trout,  bor- 
dered by  thickets  of  various 
kinds  of  shrubbery,  and  shaded 
at  intervals  by  groves  of  pine, 
and  tall,  isolated  trees  of  stately 
appearance.  In  the  east,  not  far 
from  the  Rio  Grande,  a narrow, 
frowning  gateway  is  formed  by 
lofty  rocks  of  black  basalt,  leav- 
ing space  for  the  bed  of  the 
stream,  the  waters  of  which 
reach  the  river  only  during 
freshets,  while  in  the  valley  they 
are  permanent.  The  slope  of  the 
mesa  lining  the  Rito  on  the  south  is  gradual,  though  steep;  ledges  and 
crags  of  pumice  protrude  from  the  shrubs  and  grass  growing  over  it. 
Tall  pines  crown  it  above.  The  average  depth  of  the  Rito  below 
both  mesas  is  several  hundred  feet;  in  places,  perhaps  as  much  as 
500  or  more.  It  is  not  properly  a valley,  since  its  greatest  width 
hardly  attains  half  a mile,  but  a gorge  or  ‘canon’  with  a fertile  bottom 
and  a brook  running  through  it.  . . . 

“As  seen  from  the  brink  of  the  southern  mesa,  the  view  of  the 
Rito  is  as  surprising  as  it  is  picturesque. 

“The  effect  is  heightened  by  the  appearance  of  a great  number 
of  little  doorways  along  the  foot  of  the  cliffs,  irregularly  alternating 
with  larger  cavities  indicating  caves,  the  fronts  of  which  have  par- 
tially or  completely  crumbled  away.  The  base  of  the  cliffs  rises  and 


Fig.  15.— Ground  plan  ol  ruin  no.  20. 


“ Papers  of  the  Archaeological  Institute  of  America,  American  series,  IV,  Final  Report,  part  n, 
p.  139,  Cambridge,  Mass.,  1892. 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[bull.  32 


falls,  so  that  the  line  of  caves  appears  to  be  at  different  elevations 
and  not  continuous.  There  are  spaces  where  the  rock  has  not  been 
burrowed  into;  in  some  places  two,  in  others  three  tiers  of  caves 
are  visible.  The  whole  length  of  this  village  of  troglodytes  is  about 
2 miles,  rather  more  than  less. 

“The  cave  dwellings  of  the  Rito  are  so  much  like  those  of  the 
Pu-ye  and  Shu-linne  that  they  scarcely  need  description;  the  differ- 
ences are  purely  local  and  accidental.  As  in  the  Tehua  country, 
they  have  artificial  floors,  and  are  whitewashed  inside  or  daubed 
over  with  yellow  clay.  There  are  the  same  types  of  doorways, 
air-holes,  and  possibly  loopholes;  the  same  kind  of  niches  and 
recesses;  but  the  cave  dwellings  at  the  Itito  are  the  most  perfect 
seen  by  me  anywhere. 

“I  measured  nearly  every  cave  through  the  whole  length  of  the 
canon  as  far  as  traces  of  former  habitations  extended,  but  must 
confine  myself  to  some  details  only.  Against  such  of  the  cliffs  as 
rise  vertically  and  the  surface  of  which  is  almost  smooth,  terraced 
houses  were  built,  using  the  rock  for  a rear  wall.  Not  only  are  the 
holes  visible  in  which  the  ends  of  the  beams  rested  that  supported 
roofs  and  ceilings,  but  in  one  or  two  places  portions  of  the  beams 
still  protrude.  They  were  round,  and  of  the  usual  size.  Along  the 
base  of  these  cliffs  extends  an  apron,  which  was  once  approximately 
leveled,  and  on  this  apron  the  foundations  of  walls  appear  in  places. 
It  would  seem  that  a row  of  houses,  one,  two,  and  even  three  stories 
high,  leaned  against  the  cliff;  and  sometimes  the  upper  story  con- 
sisted of  a cave,  the  lower  of  a building. 

“Chambers  nearly  circular,  larger  in  size  than  the  majority  of 
caves,  are  also  found  in  the  cliffs,  some  of  which  have  a low  projec- 
tion around  the  room  like  a bench  of  stone.  These  were  doubtless 
estufas,  as  I was  told  by  one  of  the  Indians  who  accompanied  me  to 
the  spot.  There  is  a distinct  estufa  not  far  from  the  bank  of  the 
brook  opposite  those  caves  situated  in  the  upper  portion  of  the 
valley,  and  a smaller  one  still  higher  up.  Including  the  four  estufas 
connected  with  the  pueblo  ruins,  of  which  I will  speak  further  on,  I 
have  noticed  at  least  ten  such  constructions  at  the  Rito. 

“In  describing  the  Pu-ye,  I spoke  of  the  pueblo  ruins  which  lie 
on  the  top  of  the  cliff  of  that  name.  At  the  Rito  de  los  Frijoles 
there  are  at  least  three  similar  ruins,  but  they  lie  in  the  river  bottom. 
Two  of  them  are  in  front  of  the  caves  at  a short  distance  from  the 
talus  sloping  up  to  them.  One  was  a one-house  pueblo  of  the  polyg- 
onal type,  which  probably  sheltered  several  hundred  people;  the 
interior  court  still  shows  three  circular  depressions  or  estufas.  The 
other,  which  lies  about  60  meters  (196  feet)  east  of  it,  shows  39  cells 
on  the  ground  floor;  and  16  meters  (23  feet)  north  of  it  is  an  estufa 
12  meters  in  diameter.  ... 


hewett]  ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU  29 

“A  third  ruin,  situated  nearly  a mile  farther  down  the  gorge  in  a 
grove  of  pine  trees,  formed  an  L,  with  a rude  stone  inclosure  on  its 
north  side,  and  connected  with  it  is  a small  estufa.  It  is  quite  as 
much  decayed  as  the  large  polygon,  and  the  potsherds  covering  its 
surface  are  similar.” 

No.  22.  Pueblo  of  the  Tapashi  and  the  Stone  Lions. a — “It  requires 
several  hours  of  steady  walking  to  reach  the  upper  end  of  the  Potrero 
de  las  Yacas.  ...  To  the  right  of  the  trail  yawns  the  deep  chasm 
of  the  Canada  Honda,  from  which  every  word  spoken  on  the  brink 
re-echoes  with  wonderful  distinctness.  Toward  the  eastern  end  of  the 
Potrero  the  forests  begin  to  thin  out  and  an  open  space  extends  until 
within  half  a mile  of  the  rocky  pedestal  of  the  San  Miguel  Mountains. 
On  this  open  space  stands  the  ruined  pueblo  shown  on  Plate  i,  figure 
11.”  [In  this  bulletin  pi.  ix,  Y] 

“Like  all  other  pueblos  of  this  region  it  is  built  of  blocks  of  pumice 
or  tufa,  nearly  rectangular,  but  now  much  worn.  I counted  280  cells 
on  the  ground  floor  and  the  average  size  of  126  of  them  proved  to  be 
4.3  by  2.7  meters  (14  by  9 feet).  Six  estufas  are  visible;  four  inside 
the  courtyard  formed  by  the  houses  and  two  outside.  The  courtyard 
is  open  to  the  southeast  and  the  whole  forms  practically  a one-house 
pueblo,  the  buildings  of  which  were  at  least  two  stories  in  height  and 
in  some  places  three  and  perhaps  four.  To  the  southeast  of  the  ruin 
on  the  edge  of  the  woods  stand  the  remains  of  an  artificial  tank.  The 
population  of  this  village  can  not  have  fallen  short  of  five  hundred 
souls.” 

“ The  name  of  Pueblo  of  the  Yap-a-shi  has  been  applied  to  the  ruin, 
but  its  proper  name  is  still  unknown  to  me,  as  the  designation  current 
among  the  people  of  Cochiti,  Tityi  Ha-nat  Ka-ma  Tze-shum-a,  signi- 
fying literally  ‘ the  old  houses  above  in  the  north,’  with  the  addition  of 
Mo-katsh  Zaitsh,  or  ‘ where  the  panthers  lie  extended,’  is  subsequent  to 
the  abandonment  of  the  village.  This  name  refers  to  the  lifesize 
images  of  pumas  or  American  panthers  (also  called  mountain  lions), 
which  lie  a few  hundred  yards  west  of  the  ruin  in  low  woods  near  the 
foot  of  the  cliffs  called  ‘Potrero  de  la  Cuesta  Colorado.’”  [See  pi. 
x,  a of  this  bulletin.]  . 

“These  remarkable  stone  objects  are  cut  out  of  the  tufa  which  con- 
stitutes the  surface  rock  of  the  Potrero  de  las  Yacas.”  . . . 

“ The  figures  attached  to  the  rock  are  two  in  number,  and  lie  side  by 
side,  representing  the  animals  as  crouching  with  tails  extended,  and 
their  heads  pointing  to  the  east.  They  are  much  disfigured,  especially 
the  heads.6  Still  the  natural  agencies  to  which  the  images  have  been 
exposed  in  the  open  air  have  rounded  the  edges  of  the  (originally  very 


a Final  Report,  part  n.  p.  150. 

b The  act  of  vandalism  was  perpetrated  by  shepherds. 


30 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGIC 


[bull.  32 


uncouth)  carvings  and  increased  their  life-like  appearance.  I recog- 
nized at  a glance  when  I first  saw  them  in  the  evening  twilight  of  the 
25th  of  October,  1880,  the  intention  to  represent  panthers  preparing 
for  a spring.  The  length  of  each  statue  is  1.80  m.  (6  feet),  of  which 
0.74  and  0.71  m.,  respectively  (or  a little  over  one-third),  make  the 
extended  tails;  the  height  is  nearly  0.60  m.  (2  feet),  and  the  breadth 
varies  between  0.35  m.  across  the  shoidders  and  0.43  m.  across  the  hips 
(14  and  17  inches).  The  space  between  the  heads  and  the  tails  of  both 
figures  measures  0.20  m.  (8  inches)  and  0.53  m.  (22  inches). 

“An  irregular  pentagonal  enclosure  surrounds  the  images,  made  of 
large  blocks,  flags,  and  slabs  of  volcanic  rock,  some  of  which  are  set  in 
the  ground  like  posts,  while  the  majority  are  piled  on  each  other,  so  as 
to  connect  the  upright  pillars.  The  perimeter  of  this  enclosure  is 
20.8  m.  (68  feet);  the  height  of  the  tallest  post,  1.25  m.  (4  feet);  and 
the  length  of  the  longest  slab,  1.58  m.  (5  feet  2 inches).  On  the  south- 
eastern corner  is  an  opening  one  meter  (39  inches)  wide,  forming  the 
entrance  to  a passage  lined  by  two  stone  hedges  like  the  enclosure, 
running  out  to  the  southeast  to  a distance  of  5.85  meters  (19  feet). 
The  whole  is  much  disturbed,  and  its  original  appearance  was  cer- 
tainly  more  regular  than  at  present.  When  I last  saw  the  monument, 
it  looked  like  a diminutive  and  dilapidated  Stonehenge.” 

No.  23.  La  Cueva  Pintada  (“  the  painted  cave  ’ ’) , plate  x,  b. — “ In  the 
gorges  both  north  and  south  of  the  Potrero  are  quite  a number  of 
artificial  caves.  Those  on  the  north,  in  the  Canada  Honda  and  the 
upper  part  of  the  Canon  del  Alamo,  are  fairly  preserved.  The  upper 
part  of  that  gorge  is  wooded,  and  the  caves  were  thus  somewhat 
sheltered.  The}'  offer  nothing  worthy  of  special  mention,  and  do  not 
compare  in  numbers  with  the  settlement  at  the  Rito.  The  Queres 
say  that  these  caves  also  are  ‘ probably  ’ the  work  of  their  ancestors. 
Those  on  the  south  side  of  the  Potrero  de  las  Vacas  are  much  more 
worn,  and  are  connected  with  the  interesting  natural  rock  shelter 
called  by  the  Queres  Tzek-iat-a-tanyi,  and  now  usually  termed 
Cueva  Pintada  or  the  painted  cave.  This  large  cavity  measures  17 
meters  (55  feet)  across  its  entrance,  its  depth  is  14  meters  (46  feet), 
and  at  an  elevation  of  17  meters  (55  feet)  above  the  floor  is  a hemi- 
cycle  of  pictographs  painted  in  red  ochre,  to  which  there  is  an  ascent 
by  means  of  old  and  much-worn  steps  in  the  rock.  The  pictographs 
represent  some  of  the  well-known  symbols  of  the  pueblos,  such  as 
clouds,  sheet  lightning,  the  sun,  dancing-shields,  and  male  and  female 
dancers.  Their  execution  is  very  rude.  The  diameter  of  this  hemi- 
cycle  is  10  meters  (324  feet).  Besides  these  aboriginal  daubs,  there 
are  modern  ones  of  equal  artistic  merit,  among  which  the  cross  is 
prominent.  Cave  dwellings  have  been  excavated  in  the  rear  wall  of 
the  cave,  and  15  meters  (48  feet)  above  the  floor  are  indentations 


HEWETT] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


31 


showing  that  chambers  had  also  been  burrowed  out  at  this  height. 
The  steps  therefore  may  have  been  made  in  order  to  reach  this  upper 
tier  of  rooms;  for  it  appeared  to  me  that  the  paintings  were  more 
recent  than  the  cave  village,  as  they  are  partially  painted  over  walls 
of  former  artificial  cells,  the  coating  of  which  had  fallen  off  before 
the  pictographs  were  placed  on  them.®  Most  of  the  cave  dwellings 
are  found  on  the  west  side  of  the  Cueva  Pintada.  Some  of  them  have 
two  tiers;  and  there  are  also  traces  of  foundations  in  front  of  the  cliff, 
showing  that  houses  had  been  built  against  the  wall.  Of  the  extent 
of  this  cave  village  it  is  difficult  to  judge,  but  enough  is  left  to  indicate 
that  it  may  have  contained  a few  hundred  people.” 

No.  21^.  Haatse. — “Xear  the  foot  of  the  Sierra  San  Miguel  lie  the 
ruins  of  the  pueblo  shown  on  plate  i,  figure  13.  It  stands  on  a 
bald  eminence,  from  which,  as  from  the  Potrero  de  las  Yacas,  an  exten- 
sive view  is  obtained  in  all  directions  except  the  west  and  north.  The 
village  consisted  of  five  separate  buildings  disposed  around  an  open 
square  and  its  population  must  have  been  at  least  two  hundred  souls. 
I saw  two  estufas  outside  of  the  square,  one  of  which  measured  seven, 
the  other  thirteen  meters  in  diameter  (23  and  42  feet).  Fifty  meters 
southeast  of  the  ruin  lie  the  remains  of  a large  artificial  tank.  The 
pottery  is  mostly  coarsely  glazed,  older  kinds  being  rare.  This 
pueblo  the  Queres  of  Cochiti  call  Ha-a-tze  (earth),  which  seems  to  be 
its  original  name.”  . 

No.  25.  Stone  Lions  of  Potrero  de  los  Idolos. — “On  the  open  space 
are  the  remains  of  two  images  of  panthers,  similar  to  those  on  the 
Potrero  de  las  Yacas.  One  of  them  is  completely  destroyed  b}r treas- 
ure hunters,  who  loosened  both  from  the  rock  by  a blast  of  powder, 
and  then  heaved  the  ponderous  rocks  out  by  means  of  crowbars. 
After  breaking  one  of  the  figures  to  pieces,  they  satisfied  themselves 
that  nothing  was  buried  underneath. 

“ The  other  image,  although  somewhat  mutilated,  is  still  in  a better 
condition  than  the  images  on  the  Potrero  de  las  Yacas,  as  the  rock 
out  of  which  it  is  carved  is  much  harder  and  has  consequently  resisted 
atmospheric  erosion  far  better.  Its  size  is  very  nearly  that  of  the  two 
figures  formerly  described. 

“The  imperfections  of  the  sculpture  are  very  apparent;  were  it  not 
for  the  statements  of  the  Indians,  who  positively  assert  that  the  inten- 
tion of  the  makers  was  to  represent  a puma,  it  would  be  considered  to 
be  a gigantie  lizard.  Still,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  it  is  Mo-katsh, 
the  panther  fetich  of  the  Shya-yak  (or  hunters)  of  some  Queres  tribe. 
There  are  also  the  remains  of  a stone  enclosure  similar  to  that  on  the 
Potrero  de  las  Yacas;  and  a stone  post  still  erect  measures  1.32  m. 

a 1 was  informed  that  in  former  times,  whenever  a pueblo  was  abandoned,  it  was  customary  to  paint 
a series  of  such  symbols  in  some  seciuded  spot  near  the  site  of  the  village.  Whether  this  is  true  or 
not  1 do  not  know. 


32 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[bull.  32 


in  height  (4  feet  4 inches).  A slab  lying  on  the  ground  near  by,  and 
with  one  end  broken  off,  is  1.58  m.  (5  feet  3 inches)  long.  Both  stones 
show  marks  of  having  been  rudely  dressed  with  stone  implements, 
but  there  are  no  traces  of  ornamental  carvings.  A number  of  smaller 
slabs  and  blocks  also  lie  scattered  about. 

"There  is  no  pueblo  ruin,  at  least  to  my  knowledge,  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  Potrero  de  los  Idolos,  and  I was  repeatedly  told 
that  the  Potrero  Largo  had  no  traces  of  antiquities  on  its  summit.  But 
the  ancient  Queres  pueblo  of  Kua-pa  lies  a little  over  one  mile  to  the 
southwest,  in  the  valley  or  Canada,  and  my  Indian  informants  asserted 
that  the  inhabitants  of  Kua-pa  had  made  the  sculptures.” 

No.  26.  Kuapa. — "The  ruins  of  Kua-pa  lie  about  a mile  and  a half 
lower  down  the  valley  than  the  present  Mexican  settlement,  midway 
between  the  Potrero  Viejo  and  the  Potrero  de  los  Idolos.  They 
occupy  a low  bluff  between  the  stream  on  the  north  and  a dry  gulch 
on  the  south,  and  are  very  much  decayed,  many  of  the  mounds  being 
barely  distinguishable.  I am  positive  of  the  existence  of  five  circular 
estufas,  but  there  may  be  at  least  two  more. 

"The  ruins  of  Kua-pa  look  much  more  ancient  than  any  of  those 
on  the  potreros;  but  this  is  due  to  the  material  of  which  they  were 
built.  In  place  of  blocks  of  tufa,  loose  rubble  and  adobe  formed  the 
hulk  of  its  walls.  Adobe  disintegrates  rapidly,  and  rubble  forms 
heaps  of  disorderly  rubbish.” 

No.  27.  Kotyiti. — "The  Potrero  Viejo  is  a natural  fortress,  almost 
as  difficult  to  storm  as  the  well  known  cliff  of  Acoma.  In  case  of 
necessity,  a small  tribe  coidd  dwell  on  its  top  for  years  without  ever 
being  obliged  to  descend  into  the  valley  beneath;  for  it  is  wooded  and 
has  a limited  area  of  tillable  soil,  and  natural  tanks.  Only  from  the 
rear  or  southwest  is  the  ascent  over  a gradual  slope;  from  the  front 
and  the  north  the  trails  climb  over  rocks  and  rocky  debris  in  full  view 
of  the  parapets,  natural  and  artificial,  that  line  the  brink  of  the  mesa. 

"Two  classes  of  ruins  occupy  the  summit,  one  of  which  is  the  com- 
paratively recent  pueblo.  It  is  two  stories  high  in  some  places,  very 
well  preserved,  and  built  of  fairly  regular  parallelopipeds  of  tufa.  The 
woodwork  in  it  was  eventually  destroyed  by  fire,  and  much  charred 
corn  is  found  in  the  ruins.  The  average  size  of  1 18  rooms  on  the  ground 
floor,  which  are  all  in  the  pueblo  with  the  exception  of  about  ten,  is 
5.0  by  2.8  m.  (16  feet  5 inches  by  9 feet  2 inches).  This  is  a large  area 
in  comparison  with  the  size  of  older  ruins.  I noticed  but  one  estufa, 
and  the  pottery  bears  a recent  character. 

"There  are  also  traces  of  older  ruins,  which  mark  the  existence  of 
small  houses. .... 

"The  oldest  ruins  on  the  mesa,  which  hardly  attract  any  attention, 
are  those  of  a prehistoric  Queres  pueblo;  the  strikingly  well  preserved 
ones  are  those  of  a village  built  after  the  year  1683,  and  abandoned  in 
April,  1694.” 


HEWETTl 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


33 


II.  Ruins  of  the  Ciiama  Drainage 

The  Rio  Chama  enters  the  Rio  Grande  near  the  Mexican  village  of 
Chamita,  about  a mile  west  of  the  Indian  village  of  San  Juan.  It 
forms  the  main  watershed  for  all  that  portion  of  northern  New  Mexico 
which  lies  between  the  Rio  Grande  and  the  continental  divide.  In 
this  bulletin  it  is  necessary  to  deal  with  only  the  lowest  100  miles  of  its 
course — that  is,  the  portion  which  tra  verses  the  Jemez  plateau.  Strictly 
speaking,  the  Rio  Chama  has  no  valley  on  the  south  side.  From  its 
mouth  to  above  Abiquiu  it  is  closely  bordered  on  the  south  by  the 
great  rim  of  the  volcanic  plateau  which  rises  abruptly  to  a height  of 
from  200  to  1,000  feet,  while  on  the  north  there  is  an  open  arid  valley 
broken  up  by  small  isolated  mesas  in  the  form  of  truncated  cones. 
Above  Abiquiu  the  river  flows  for  many  miles  through  a picturesque 
gorge.  The  country  on  both 
sides  is  rough  and  broken,  that 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Gallinas 
being  in  the  nature  of  “bad 
lands”.  (PI.  xi,  a,  b.) 

The  entire  area  is  rich  in 
archeological  remains.  Above 
Abiquiu  are  both  cliff-dwelling 
and  pueblo  ruins,  stone  being  the 
only  building  material  used. 

From  Abiquiu  down,  pueblos 
only  are  found.  These  were 
quite  numerous,  in  most  cases 
of  great  extent  and  all  built  of 
adobe  with  rubble  used  in  the 
foundations.  With  the  excep- 
tion of  those  at  Abiquiu  and  Chamita,  all  these  are  prehistoric.  In 
describing  the  antiquities  of  this  watershed,  it  will  be  convenient  to 
consider  first,  the  plateau  ruins  on  the  south  side  of  the  Chama 
between  the  Rio  Grande  and  Pedernal  peak;  second,  the  valley  ruins 
north  of  the  river  up  to  Abiquiu;  third,  the  ruins  above  Abiquiu. 

A succession  of  large  pueblos  occupied  commanding  sites  on  the 
northern  rim  of  the  plateau  overlooking  the  Chama,  These  will  be 
described  in  the  order  of  their  occurrence  ascending  the  river. 

Ao.  28.  Poihuuinffe  (fig.  16). — About  four  miles  above  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Chama  with  the  Rio  Grande  is  the  noble  cottonwood 
grove  whose  grateful  shade  has  been  the  noon  or  evening  goal  of  every 
traveler  that  has  toiled  up  or  down  that  sandy  vallej7  for  a centurv. 
At  this  point  a chain  of  detached  fragments  of  the  great  Black  mesa 
(Mesa  Canoa)  crosses  over  to  the  south  side  of  the  river  and  extends 
for  some  miles  southwestward.  On  the  top  of  one  of  these  black 
8806— No.  32—06 3 


Fig.  16.- 


-Ground  plan  of  Poihuuinge. 


34 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[bull.  32 


fragmentary  mesas  about  a mile  south  of  the  river  stood  the  village 
of  Poihuuinge.  Its  ruins  are  probably  500  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
river.  The  pueblo  was  of  adobe,  with  large  irregular  blocks  of  basalt 
in  the  foundation.  It  consisted  of  three  buildings  so  placed  as  to  form 
an  irregular  quadrangle,  the  south  side  being  open.  The  extreme 
length  of  the  longest  side  is  421  feet.  There  are  two  circular,  subter- 
ranean kivas  within  the  court.  About  100  yards  south  of  the  pueblo 
is  the  ruin  of  a large  circular  kiva,  50  feet  in  diameter,  which  was  in 
part  subterranean  and  in  part  constructed  of  irregular  blocks  of  basalt, 
conglomerate,  and  sandstone  carried  above  ground  to  a height  of 
probably  eight  or  ten  feet.  About  200  yards  east  are  the  ruins  of  a 
building  similarly  constructed,  which  bears  some  evidence  of  having 
been  used  for  a shrine.  In  this  structure  large  blocks  or  slabs  of  stone 
set  on  edge  were  used  in  the  walls  and  the  general  form  is  that  of 

shrines  still  in  use  among  the 
Tewa.  It  is  35  feet  in  diame- 
ter. considerably  larger  than 
any  of  the  shrines  now  in  use. 
The  pottery  of  this  ruin  is  strik- 
ingly similar  to  that  found  in 
the  ruins  farther  south.  While 
there  is  every  evidence  of  the 
use  of  corn  at  this  pueblo,  there 
has  been  no  possibility^  of  agri- 
culture in  the  immediate  vicin- 
ity. The  nearest  land  that 
might  have  been  arable  is  about 
a mile  away. 

ATo.  29.  Teeuinge  (fig.  17). — - 
This  is  a large  ruin  situated  on 
the  rim  of  the  mesa  overlooking 
the  valley,  just  below  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Rio  Oso  with  the  Chama.  It  is  about  a quarter  of  a mile 
south  of  the  river,  and  the  bluff  on  which  it  stands  is  about  200  feet 
high.  The  pueblo  was  constructed  of  adobe  with  some  use  of  lava 
blocks  in  the  foundation  walls,  and  is  now  reduced  to  low  mounds.  It 
was  built  in  two  large  adjoining  quadrangles,  or  would  perhaps  be  better 
described  as  one  long  rectangle  divided  by  cross  walls  into  two  courts. 
The  extreme  length  of  the  rectangle  is  525  feet,  the  extreme  width 
210  feet.  The  walls  have  a perimeter  of  1,470  feet.  Within  and  con- 
tiguous to  the  pueblo  are  ten  circular,  subterranean  kivas  and  a few 
yards  to  the  east  is  a ruined  shrine  in  circular  form,  eight  feet  in  diam- 
eter, built  of  lava  blocks  set  on  edge. 

No.  SO.  Kwengyauinge  (“blue  turquoise  house”),  figure  18. — Tliis 
is  a large  pueblo  ruin  on  a conical  hill  about  150  feet  high  overlooking 


FlG.  17. — Ground  plan  of  Teeuinge. 


HEWETTj 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


35 


the  Chama  river  at  a point  known  as  “La  Puenta,”  about  3 miles  below 
Abiquiu.  It  was  visited  by  Yarrow  in  1874  and  briefly  described 
by  him.  ° Some  valuable  observations  are  made  in  his  report  , though 
the  present  writer  finds  it  impossible  to  agree  with  some  of  the  most 
important  of  them.  It  should  be  remembered  that  the  latter’s 
studies  at  the  site  occurred  thirty-one  years  later  when  the  ruin  was 
in  a much  more  advanced  stage  of  decay,  and  the  probabilities  of 
inaccuracy  were  consequently  much  greater  than  in  Doctor  Yarrow’s 
time.  However,  this  could  not  possibly  account  for  the  great  differ- 
ence in  dimensions  that  will  be  noted  on  comparing  the  two  plans  of 
the  ruins.  The  site  was  visited  and  described  b by  Bandelier  also  in 
1880.  This  pueblo  covered  a larger  area  than  any  other  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  Chama,  with  the  exception  of  site  no.  32.  In  the 
opinion  of  the  author  it 
was  an  adobe  structure 
with  about  the  same 
amount  of  rubble  in  the 
foundations  that  the 
modern  Tewa  use  in  the 
construction  of  their 
houses.  Yarrow  and 
Bandelier  represent  this 
pueblo  as  exceeding  a 
single  story  in  height  ; 

Yarrow  suggests  two, 

Bandelier  two  to  three 
stories.  The  amount  of 
debris  does  not  seem  to  justify  these  conclusions  with  which  the  writer 
of  this  paper  can  not  agree.  The  mound  is  very  low  and  the  pueblo 
was  not  built  of  material  that  would  be  carried  away  by  subsequent  set- 
tlers, as  was  often  done  where  stone  was  used.  Moreover,  the  method 
of  using  adobe  was  the  primitive  one  of  increasing  the  height  of  wall  by 
the  addition  of  successive  layers  of  mud  held  in  place  by  a box-like  sup- 
port of  wattle  work,  two  upright  parallel  surfaces  set.  and  fastened  just 
far  enough  apart  to  give  the  required  thickness  of  wall.  Adobe  work 
of  this  kind  was  not  sufficiently  stable  for  walls  more  than  one  story 
high  unless  made  of  greater  thickness  than  in  the  case  of  any  of  the 
adobe  pueblos  of  this  region.  In  addition  to  the  small  amount  of 
debris  the  great  length  of  the  various  sections  of  this  village  would 
indicate  that  the  builders  had  not  mastered  their  material  to  a suffi- 
cient extent  to  enable  them  to  erect  a many-storied  building,  as  they 
could  do  with  stone,  or  even  with  adobe  after  learning  the  art  of 
making  the  latter  into  bricks.  An  interesting  constructive  feature 


vr>'V\‘A  --''.Hr -i. 

% >'  . £ Y ? > W 
4,° 


V 


X V 

v.v.  >ao 


Fig.  18. — Ground  plan  of  Kwengyauinge. 


0 Annual  Report  of  the  Chief  of  Engineers  for  1875,  p.  1061. 

1 Papers  of  Archaeological  Institute  of  America,  American  series,  part  n,  p.  .56,  Cambridge,  Mass., 
1884. 


36  BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY  [bull.  32 

of  this  pueblo  is  the  one  heavy  interior  wall,  forming  a central  axis 
extending  through  the  entire  length  of  the  structure,  all  parallel  walls, 
including  the  exterior,  and  all  cross  walls  being  much  lighter  and  in 
every  way  inferior.  Whether  there  was  communication  between 
apartments  on  opposite  sides  of  this  wall  is  as  yet  problematical. 
Future  excavations  may  decide  that  question. 

Ao.  31.  Abechiu  (Tewa,  “the  screech  of  the  owl”), figure  19. — This 
was  an  adobe  pueblo  situated  on  the  lower  mesa  some  three  hundred 
feet  above  the  Cliama.  It  is  just  south  of  the  present  Mexican  town 
of  Abiquiu.  The  site  is  variously  known  to  the  Tewa  Indians  as 
Abechiu,  Josege,  and  Make.  This  may  be  owing  to  the  fact  that  there 
have  been  several  distinct  occupations  of  tills  village.  Its  history  has 
been  written  by  Bandelier. a 

The  ruin  is  now  reduced  to  low  mounds  which  have  been  dug  over 
considerably  in  a desultory  way. 

Ao.  32. — On  the  top  of  the  second  mesa  south  of  the  Cliama  at 

Abiquiu  are  rums  of  an 
except  iona  1 c h a r a c f e r. 
This  is  a crescent-shaped 
mesa  about  one-half  mile 
wide  by  14  miles  long. 
The  top  is  lei*el  and 
sparsely  covered  with 
short  buffalo  grass  and  a 
few  scrubby  pines  and 
pinons.  Its  general  trend 
is  from  southwest  to 
northeast.  Beginningat  about  the  center  of  the  mesa  and  extending 
toward  the  northwest  are  vestiges  of  ruins  of  very  great  extent.  Only 
sufficient  material  remains  on  the  ground  to  indicate  the  outlines  of  the 
buildings.  This  material  consists  of  cobblestones  and  small  lava  blocks, 
evidently  the  foundations  of  very  ancient  walls.  The  rooms  outlined 
vary  from  8 to  10  feet  wide  by  from  15  to  20  feet  long,  the  average 
being  about  9 by  18.  In  some  places  these  rooms  are  plainly  outlined 
by  the  protruding  foundation  stones,  in  others  barely  distinguishable, 
and  in  still  other  places  fading  out  entirely.  They  follow  the  trend  of 
the  mesa  for  over  900  yards.  One  may  count  the  outlines  of  rooms  to 
the  number  of  many  hundreds.  The  author  ventures  the  opinion 
that  not  fewer  than  2,000  are  plainly  outlined. 

A 0.33.  Chipiinuinge  (Tewa,  “house  at  the  pointed  peak’’),  figure 
20. — A great  ruined  pueblo  and  cliff-village  occupying  a small  detached 
mesa  between  the  Canyones  and  Polvadera  creek.  4 miles  south  of 
Bio  Cliama  and  about  14  miles  southwest  of  Abiquiu.  The  site  was 

a Papers  of  the  Archaeological  Institute  of  America.  American  series,  part  ii.  p.  54.  Cambridge.  Mass., 
1884. 


Fig.  19. — Ground  plan  of  Abechiu. 


m 


HEWETTj 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


37 


doubtless  selected  on  account  of  its  defensible  character,  the  pueblo 
being:  situated  at  least  800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  creek  and  its 
walls  built  flush  with  the  edge  of  the  precipice.  The  great  Pedernal 
peak,  from  which  the  village  takes  its  name,  rises  on  the  other  side  of 


the  canyon  about  2 miles  to  the  southwest.  The  pueblo  is  inaccessible 
except  by  a single  trail  which  winds  up  from  the  Polvadera  and  reaches 
the  summit  of  the  mesa  at  its  south  end,  passing  thence  through  two 
strongly  fortified  gaps  before  the  pueblo  is  reached.  The  site  was 
impregnable  against  any  form  of  attack  possible  in  savage  warfare. 


38 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[BULL.  32 


The  commanding  position  was  at  the  gateway  to  the  Tewa  country  east 
of  the  mountains,  and  according  to  tradition  it  was  the  function  of 
Chipiinuinge  to  withstand  as  far  as  possible  the  raids  of  enemies  com- 
ing from  the  northwest.  The  pueblo  was  built  entirely  of  stone  and 
was  of  three  stories,  in  places  possibly  four.  Portions  of  second-story 
walls  are  still  standing  and  many  cedar  timbers  are  well  preserved. 
The  remains  of  15  kivas  (fig.  20,  a to  o) , mostly  circular,  a few  rectangu- 
lar, are  still  traceable  in  and  about  the  ruins.  These  are  all  mostly,  if 
not  wholly,  subterranean,  having  been  excavated  in  the  rock  surface  on 
which  the  pueblo  stands.  The  cliff-dwellings  in  the  east  face  of  the 
mesa  are  all  of  the  excavated  type  and  appear  to  have  been  used  for 
mortuary  quite  as  much  as  for  domiciliary  purposes. 

No.  3J+.  Yugeuinge  (fig.  21). — Passing  now  to  the  ruins  in  the  valley 
north  of  the  Chama,  the  first  to  he  noticed  is  that  of  Yugeuinge,  situ- 


ated on  the  delta  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  Chama  and  Rio 
Grande.  This  site  is  partially  occupied  by  the  Mexican  village  of 
Chamita,  of  especial  interest  as  the  first  white  settlement  in  New 
Mexico,  founded  in  1598.  The  ruin  now  consists  of  one  irregular 
quadrangle  with  large  openings  on  the  northwest  and  southeast.  If 
the  village  embraced  buildings  other  than  the  two  great  structures 
surrounding  this  quadrangle,  they  have  been  entirely  obliterated. 
This  might  readily  have  occurred,  as  the  site  is  completely  surrounded 
by  cultivated  fields.  The  mounds  are  so  well  preserved  that  the  form 
of  the  pueblo  is  perfectly  obvious.  It  was  built  of  adobe  with  consid- 
erable use  of  rubble  and  small  bowlders  laid  in  mortar. 

No.  35.  Poseuinge  or  Posege. — This  is  the  first  of  a group  of  large 
ruins  in  the  valley  of  Ojo  Caliente,  the  first  northern  tributary  of  the 
Chama.  The  ruin  is  about  14  miles  above  the  confluence,  situated  on 


hewett]  ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU  39 

a hill  about  140  feet  above  the  Ojo  Caiente.  It  is  the  largest  one  of 
the  group  in  the  valley.  The  walls  are  built  of  adobe  with  some  inter- 
calation with  slabs  of  stone.  Thirteen  circular  lcivas  are  to  be  seen 
in  connection  with  this  pueblo.  The  pip  here  shown  (fig.  22)  is  by 
Mr  W.  H.  Holmes. 


No.  36.  Homayo  (fig.  23). — This  is  a large,  compactly  built  pueblo 
ruin  situated  on  a promontory  on  the  west  side  of  the  Ojo  Caliente 
about  a mile  and  a half  above  Posege.  The  walls  are  of  adobe  about  a 
foot  .thick.  There  are  seven  kivas  in  or  about  the  village.  These  vary 
from  30  to  50  feet  in  diameter  and  are  all  of  the  circular  form.  This 
village  is  well  situated  for  defense,  as  it  can  be  approached  readily 
from  the  west  side  only.  There  is  one  main  plaza  or  court  which 
appears  to  have  been  completely  closed.  Attached  to  this  on  the  east 


40 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[BULL.  32 


C) 


Fig.  23.— Ground  plan  of  Homayo. 


are  two  sections  which  partially  inclose  another  and  smaller  court. 
Three  detached  sections  stand  at  a little  distance  from  the  main 
quadrangle. 

No.  37.  Ilouiri  (fig.  24). — On  a low  mesa  on  the  east  bank  of  the 
creek  just  opposite  Homayo  is  the  ruin  of  Houiri.  Here  again  is  found 

one  great  hollow  quadran- 
gle closed  except  at  one 
corner,  another  smaller  one 
inclosed  by  three  detached 
O buildings,  and  two  entirely 
independent  sections.  The 
main  quadrangle  has  a per- 
imeter of  approximately 
1 ,350  feet.  The  width  of  the 
sections  making  up  the  vil- 
lage varies  from  25  to  50 
feet,  the  number  of  rooms 
in  width  being  indefinite. 
There  are  the  remains  of  ten 
circular  kivas, ranging  from 
35  to  50  feet  in  diameter. 

No.  38.  Sepawi  (fig.  25). — In  the  valley  of  El  Rito  creek  about  five 
miles  below  the  Mexican  village  of  the  same  name  are  the  ruins  of 
Sepawi,  one  of  the  largest  pueblos  to  be  found  in  the  entire  area 
described  in  this  bulletin.  It  is  now  reduced  to  low  rounded  mounds. 
There  is  a little  woodwork  still 
to  be  seen  in  the  debris  of  the 
buildings.  Six  circular  kivas  are 
visible,  one  of  which  was  only  /•',  ,/ 

partially  subterranean.  The  ki-  ? ' ./  18  ? 

vas  range  from  30  to  55  feet  in 
diameter.  The  village  consists  of 
one  principal  structure  forming 
two  incomplete  rectangles  and  | 
ten  detached  buildings,  so  dis-  f 

posed  as  to  form  a number  of  f ;t  w 

secondary  courts. 

No.  39.  Cristone  and  other  ru- 
ins  above  Abiquiu-  The  arche- 
ology of  this  portion  of  the 

Chama  drainage  is  too  little  known  to  attempt  at  this  time  a 
detailed  description  of  the  ruins.  It  has  been  known  for  many 
years  that  this  district  is  rich  in  remains  of  antiquity,  but  the 
study  of  them  has  been  overlooked.  The  presence  of  ruins  at  many 
points  on  both  sides  of  the  Chama  is  reported  and  here  is  a splendid 


U 


. •-> 

, » ■ . y.'* 


Fig.  24.— Ground  plan  of  Ilouiri. 


hewett] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


41 


field  for  the  investigator.  A general  idea  of  the  character  and  extent 
of  these  ruins  may  be  obtained  from  the  report  of  Prof.  E.  D.  Cope, 
paleontologist,  in  which  he  gives  an  account  of  those  in  one  district, 
Gallinas  creek,  where  he  was  encamped  in  1874.  I quote  at  length 
from  his  report : a 

“My  attention  was  first  called  to  the  archeology  of  the  region  by 
observing  that  the  conic  hills  just  mentioned  appeared  to  be  in  many 
instances  crowned  with  stone  structures,  which  on  examination  proved 


p'l  l/.A\  |/a\I  l/A\l  |/.A\I/A\  I /. 


1 1 .\u  '/.At  I,  'W  I.wa.w  .'1/  .v ; . • ^ 


ii 

f.-g 


’I  c 


I:f 

IM 


*'  it  ’ 

mm 

3 lv-i 


g;4i 

Jj-J  B 

I# 

'M**0 

I'.df 

vt  :v*e 

§g.f| 


i-ss 
* i i 
£ ■ is 


w 


IK'i# 

S=.f  -v?^ 


II 


K 


fAg 

*■  ■■«  Ju~? 


y 5:  '^i$lrxUiBTi//£ 

Fig.  25. — Ground  plan  of  Sepawi. 


to  be  ruined  buildings.  These  are  round  or  square,  with  rounded 
angles,  and  from  15  to  25  feet  in  diameter.  The  walls  are  2 and  3 feet 
in  diameter,  and  composed  of  stones  of  moderate  size,  which  have  been 
roughly  dressed  or  built  without  dressing  into  solid  but  not  very 
closely-fitting  masonry.  The  walls  remaining  measure  from  10  feet 
high  downward.  ...  A building  more  or  less  exactly  agreeing 
with  this  description  was  found  on  the  summit  of  every  hill  of  a conical 
form  in  the  vicinity.  Their  form  is  probably  due  to  the  shape  of  the 


Annual  Report  of  the  Chief  of  Engineers  for  1875,  Appendix  L L. 


42 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[bull.  32 


hill,  as  they  were  differently  built  on  the  level  hog-backs.  None  of  the 
circular  buildings  were  found  to  be  divided,  nor  were  any  traces  of  such 
buildings  observed  on  lower  ground. 

“ In  riding  past  the  foot  of  the  precipice  I observed  what  appeared  to 
be  stone  walls  crowning  its  summit.  Examination  of  the  ridge  dis- 
closed the  fact  that  a village,  forming  a single  line  of  thirty  houses, 
extended  along  its  narrow  crest,  twenty-two  of  them  being  south  of  * 
the  causeway  and  eight  north  of  it.  The  most  southern  in  situation  is 
at  some  distance  from  the  southern  extremity  of  the  hog-back.  . . . 

It  is  built  on  the  western  slope  of  the  rock,  a wall  of  12  feet  in  height 
supporting  it  on  that  side,  while  the  narrow  ledge  forming  the  summit 
of  the  ridge  is  its  back  wall.  It  is  square,  3.355  meters  on  a side,  and 
has  a floor  leveled  with  earth  and  stones.  . . . The  second  house 

is  immediately  adjoining  and  is  surrounded  by  an  independent  wall, 
that  on  the  lower  side  of  the  ridge  being  still  12  feet  in  height.  The 
length  of  the  inclosure  is  4.69  meters  and  the  width  2.68  meters;  full 
sized  scrub-oak  and  sage  brush  are  growing  in  it.  The  stumps  of  two 
cedar  posts  remain,  one  5 the  other  8 inches  in  diameter.  The  third 
house  adjoins  No.  2,  but  is  surrounded  by  a distinct  wall,  except  at  the 
back  or  side  next  the  precipice,  where  a ledge  of  rock  completes  the 
inclosure.  The  latter  is  4.02  meters  long. 

"Beyond  these  ruins  is  an  interval  of  69  meters,  where  the  summit 
of  the  rock  is  narrow  and  smooth.  . . . The  walls  of  an  oval 

building  follow,  which  inclose  a space  of  4.69  meters.  They  are  2 to 
21  feet  in  thickness,  and  stand  8 feet  high  on  the  western  side;  the 
eastern  wall  stands  on  the  sheer  edge  of  the  precipice.  A building 
adjoins,  with  the  dividing-wall  common  to  the  preceding  house.  Its 
east  and  west  walls  stand  on  parallel  ledges  of  the  sandstone  strata. 

. Diameter  of  this  inclosure  5.37  meters.  A space  of  15.4 
meters  follows,  with  precipices  on  both  sides,  when  we  reach  house 
No.  6.  The  eastern  wall  stands  5 feet  high  on  the  summit  of  the 
precipice,  from  which  a stone  might  be  dropped  to  the  ground,  per- 
haps 350  feet  below.  Only  8 feet  of  the  western  wall  remained  at  the 
time  of  my  examination.  The  inclosure  is  6.04  meters  long,  and  not 
quite  so  wide,  and  is  divided  transversely  by  a wall,  which  cuts  off  less 
than  one-third  of  the  apartment.  In  one  of  the  opposite  corners  of 
the  larger  room  is  the  stump  of  a cedar  post  5 inches  in  diameter. 
This  house  can  only  be  reached  by  climbing  over  narrow  ledges  and 
steep  faces  of  rock.  House  Xo.  7 follows  an  interval  of  42.30  meters. 
Its  foundation-wall  incloses  an  irregular  square  space  4.70  meters  long 
and  3.69  meters  wide;  it  is  11  feet  high  on  the  western  side,  and  very 
regularly  built  and  well  preserved;  on  the  east  side  it  is  8 feet  liigh,  and 
is  interrupted  by  a doorway  of  regular  form. 

“ The  crest  of  the  ridge  is  without  ruins  for  52.34  meters  farther,  then 
a building  follows  whose  inclosed  space  is  an  irregular  circle  of  4.70 


HEWETT] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


43 


meters  diameter.  A transverse  summit-, edge  forms  its  southern  wall, 
but  the  remaining  portion  is  remarkably  massive,  measuring  3 feet  in 
thickness.  Its  western  wall  is  12  feet  high,  and  contains  many  huge 
stones,  which  four  or  five  men  could  not  lift  unaided  by  machinery. 
Several  scrub-oaks  of  3 inches  in  diameter  grow  in  this  chamber,  and 
stumps  of  the  cedar  posts  that  supported  the  roof  remain.  Here  fol- 
lows a row  of  ten  similar  ruined  houses,  measuring  from  3.35  to  ft. 24 
meters  in  length.  Of  these  No.  13  is  remarkable  for  containing  a 
scrub-oak  of  13  inches  in  diameter,  the  largest  that  I have  seen  in  the 
country,  and  the  species  is  an  abundant  one.  In  No.  14  the  remaining 
western  wall  is  15  feet  in  height.  There  was  a good  deal  of  pottery 
lying  on  the  western  slope  of  the  rock,  but  of  flint  implements  and 
chips  I found  but  few.  All  of  these  ruins  contain  full-grown  sage 
bushes.  No.  18  is  the  largest  ruin;  the  length  of  its  inclosure  is  8.62 
meters,  and  the  width  6.71  meters;  its  west  wall  is  6 feet  high;  the  floor 
is  overgrown  with  sage  of  the  largest  size.  This  building  stood  51 
meters  from  No.  17;  12.80  meters  northward  the  ridge  descends 
slightly  to  the  level  of  the  causeway  already  mentioned.  Here  are  five 
more  ruined  buildings  of  the  same  average  size  as  the  others,  inter- 
rupted by  hut  one  short  interval. 

“From  this  depression,  that  part  of  the  hog-back  which  is  north  of 
the  causeway  rises  abruptly  in  a perpendicular  face.  It  is  composed 
principally  of  two  layers  of  the  sandstone,  dipping  at  45°  W.,  which 
are  separated  by  a deep  cavity  from  a point  15  feet  from  the  base 
upward.  This  niche  has  been  appropriated  for  a habitation,  for  it  is 
walled  to  a height  of  8 feet  from  its  base.  The  foot  of  the  wall  is 
quite  inaccessible,  but  by  climbing  round  the  eastern  face  of  the  prec- 
ipice a ledge  is  found  at  the  base  of  the  projecting  stratum,  which 
forms  the  east  wall  of  the  inclosure.  This  was  scaled  by  means  of  a 
staircase  of  stones,  a number  of  which  were  in  position  at  the  time  of 
my  visit.  The  remaining  portion  of  the  hog-back  is  elevated  and 
smooth,  and  the  foundation  stones  only  of  several  houses  remain. 
One  of  these  contain  two  stout  posts,  of  which  4 feet  remain  above 
ground.  The  last  house  is  near  the  end  of  the  ridge,  and  is  bounded  by 
a wall  10  feet  in  height  , which  forms  its  western  side. 

“The  walls  of  these  houses  are  built  of  a mortar  of  mud,  mixed,  in 
many  cases  at  least,  with  ashes,  judging  from  the  abundant  specks  of 
charcoal  which  it  contains.  It  is  not  of  good  quality,  and  has  weath- 
ered much  from  between  the  stones. 

“This  town  I called  Cristone.  The  same  hog-back  recommences  a 
little  more  than  a mile  to  the  north,  rising  to  a greater  elevation,  say 
600  or  700  feet  above  the  valleyr.  The  east  side  is  perpendicular, 
while  the  dip  of  the  west  side  is  60°,  and  sometimes  even  a higher  angle. 
On  this  almost  inaccessible  crest  I could  see  from  the  valley  the  walls 
of  ruined  stone  buildings,  such  as  I have  just  described.  ...  In 


44 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[BI  LL.  32 


the  opposite  direction  I observed  a similar  ruin  on  an  outlying  hill 
adjacent  to  the  southern  portion  of  the  southern  hog-back.  This  one 
is  of  larger  size  than  any  of  the  others. 

‘‘In  other  localities  ruined  stone  buildings  occupy  the  flat  summits 
of  mesa  hills  of  the  bad-lands,  often  in  very  elevated  and  veil-defended 
positions.  It  was  a common  observation  that  the  erosion  of  the  faces 
of  these  bluffs  had  undermined  the  foundations  of  the  houses,  so  that 
their  wall-stones,  with  the  posts,  were  mingled  with  the  pottery  on  the 
talus  below.  At  one  point  foundation-walls  stand  on  an  isthmus,  con- 
necting a butte  with  the  mesa,  of  which  a width  of  20  feet  remains,  but 
which  is  furrowed  with  water  channels.  Here  Eocene  fossils  and  pot- 
tery, including  a narrow-necked  jug,  were  confusedly  mixed  together. 
At  another  point  the  narrow  summit  of  a butte,  of  nearly  200  feet  ele- 
vation, is  covered  with  remnants  of  stone  buildings  which  extend  for  a 
length  of  200  yards.  The  greater  part  of  them  had  been  undermined, 
and  the  stones  were  lying  in  quantities  on  the  talus  at  the  time  of  my 
visit.  At  one  end  of  the  line  the  bases  of  two  rectangular  walls,  per- 
haps of  towers,  appeared  to  have  been  placed  as  supports  to  the  ter- 
race. Very  dry  cedar  posts  occur  among  the  ruins,  and  three  such, 
standing  upright  on  the  summit  of  the  butte,  mark  a spot  as  yet 
unaffected  by  the  disintegration  of  the  cliff.  . . . At  a remote 

portion  of  the  ruins,  on  a remaining  ledge,  I found  a square  inclosure 
formed  of  stones  set  on  edge,  three  stones  forming  each  half  of  the 
inclosure.  . . . The  number  of  buildings  in  a square  mile  of  that 

region  is  equal  to  if  not  greater  than  the  number  now  existing  in  the 
more  densely  populated  rural  districts  of  Pennsylvania  and  New 
Jersey.  ...  In  general,  I may  say  that  the  number  of  ruins  I 
found  was  in  direct  proportion  to  the  attention  I gave  the  matter; 
where  I looked  for  them  I invariably  found  them  in  suitable 
situations. 

“ Perhaps  the  most  remarkable  fact  in  connection  with  these  ruins 
is  the  remoteness  of  a large  proportion  of  them  from  water.  They 
occur  everywhere  in  the  bad-lands  to  a distance  of  twenty-five  miles 
from  any  terrestrial  source  of  supply.” 

III.  Ruins  of  the  Jemez  Valley" 

In  the  lower  Jemez  valley  there  are  three  inhabited  pueblos,  Jemez, 
Sia,  and  Santa  Ana,  and  there  are  perhaps  as  many  as  twenty  or  thirty 
deserted  sites,  situated  mostly  in  the  upper  valleys,  some  of  which 
must  have  been  villages  of  considerable  importance.  All  are  of  the 
usual  pueblo  type,  differing  somewhat  from  the  more  northern  vil- 
lages of  like  situation,  but  typical  of  the  middle  region,  to  which  they 
belong. 

a From  Notes  on  the  Antiquities  of  Jemez  Valley,  New  Mexico,  by  W.  II.  Holmes.  American  An- 
thropologist, v.  i,  no.  2,  April-June,  1905. 


HEWETT] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


45 


The  early  days  of  Spanish  occupancy  of  the  Jemez  country,  1540 
to  1700,  witnessed  many  stirring  events  of  conquest,  revolt,  and  recon- 
quest, and  numerous  interesting  details  culled  from  the  Spanish  chron- 
icles are  given  by  Bandelier  in  his  Final  Report.  The  Jemez  pueblos 
were  first  visited  by  the  Spaniards  under  Francisco  de  Barrionuevo 
in  1541.  Onate,  in  1598,  saw  eight  villages,  and  others  were  men- 
tioned to  him.  Bandelier  says  that  at  the  time  of  his  visits  in  1880-1885 
the  Jemez  gave  him  the  names  of  seventeen  of  the  old  pueblos.  He 
believes  that  the  numerous  small  villages  were  gradually  consolidated 
into  two,  and  finally  into  one — 


|//#^ 


:IUII  line'll 


f | ■iililiMiiiiiiiuiimiiniig,  S 


° I'T# 


7/miili\s- 


SlMf' 


# • • •2 
at-..  ■— 


the  present  pueblo. a 

No.  lf.0. — About  half  a mile 
below  the  village  of  Jemez  are 
two  anciently  inhabited  sites 
that  show  no  distinctly  marked 
architectural  remains,  but  the 
ground  is  strewn  with  various 
minor  relics.  No  specimen  was 
found  that  suggested  Spanish 
influence,  and  all  varieties  could 
he  duplicated  from  the  more 
northern  sites  where  Spanish 
influence  was  never  felt.  All 
other  sites  visited  in  the  valley 
exhibit  in  different  degrees  traces 
of  modern  pueblo  influence  if  not 
of  the  presence  of  the  Spaniard. 

One  of  the  sites  is  on 
the  low  east  bank  of  the  creek 
near  the  water’s  edge,  and  the 
other  on  the  western  side  nearly  opposite.  Similar  traces  marking 
other  ancient  sites  are  found  in  various  parts  of  the  valley,  and 
probably  represent  the  exclusively  prehistoric  occupancy. 

To.  4-1  ■ — On  a partially  isolated  bit  of  mesa  about  three  miles  west 
of  Jemez  is  a considerable  ruin,  which  does  not  bear  evidence,  how- 
ever, of  long  continued  occupancy.  The  summit  of  the  mesa  is  with- 
out trees  and  almost  without  soil,  and  water  must  have  been  obtained 
from  far  below.  The  walls  of  the  ruin  are  well  defined,  and  stand  in 
places  five  or  six  feet  in  height;  but  they  are  formed  of  rough,  loosely 
laid  stones,  and  are  extremely  thin  and  unstable.  They  could  not 
have  been  high  at  any  time,  as  there  is  a marked  absence  of  debris,  and 
the  dearth  of  pottery  and  kitchen  refuse  would  seem  to  stamp  the 
place  as  a temporary  or  emergency  abode.  The  site  is  favorable  for 


Fig.  26. — Ground  plan  of  ruined  pueblo  three  miles 
west  of  Jemez. 


“ A.  F.  Bandelier,  in  Papers  of  the  Archaeological  Institute  of  America,  Amer.  series,  IV,  Final  Report 
part  h,  p.  208,  Cambridge,  Mass.,  1892. 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[BULL.  32 


46 


defense,  and  there  are  traces  of  defensive  walls  along  the  margin  of 
the  summit.  The  buildings  are  irregular  in  plan  and  comprise  three 
groups,  the  full  length  of  the  groups  being  about  450  feet  and  the 
width  350  feet. a A sketch  plan  is  given  in  figure  26.  . . . There 

appears  to  he  no  definite  historic  reference  to  this  site. 

No.  1+2. — Two  unimportant  ruined  structures  occur  three  and  a half 
miles  northeast  of  Jemez  pueblo,  on  a bluff  overlooking  Vallecito 
creek  (fig.  27).  They  are  rather  unpretentious  piles,  and  by  their 
advanced  state  of  decay  would  seem  to  have  been  long  deserted.  There 
are  no  positive  indications  of  occupancy  by  post-Spanish  inhabitants. 

Fragments  of  the  archaic  varieties  of  pottery  occur,  and  the 
usual  forms  of  stone  implements.  The  lower  ruin,  a,  about  150  feet 
above  the  creek  level,  is  squarish  in  outline,  and  is  about  175  by  180 
feet  in  extent.  It  incloses  a court  in  which  a shallow  circular  depres- 


sion occurs.  The  ridges  of  debris  are  four  or  five  feet  in  height  and 
two  or  three  rooms -in  width.  The  upper  structure,  b,  is  about  150  by 
200  feet  in  extent,  and  embodies  two  courts.  The  walls  are  very 
much  reduced. 

No.  J3.  Patokwa. — Two  ruined  pueblos,  extremely  interesting  on 
account  of  their  connection  with  the  events  of  the  Spanish  conquest, 
are  found  at  the  confluence  of  the  two  main  branches  of  Jemez  creek, 
six  miles  above  the  present  Jemez  pueblo.  One  is  on  a low  mesa 
point  between  the  two  streams,  and  the  other  occupies  the  end  of  the 
great  mesa  several  hundred  feet  above.  The  lower  site  (fig.  28,  a)  is 
one  that  would  naturally  he  selected  for  residence  by  primitive  peo- 
ples, and  may  well  have  been  a principal  pueblo  of  the  valley  in  pre- 
Spanish  times.  One  portion  of  the  ruin  is  a large  mound  of  debris 
from  which  the  larger  stones  have  been  removed.  This  represents 
the  prehistoric  town.  The  other  portion  is  in  a much  better  state  of 
preservation,  and  consists  of  lines  of  fallen  house  rows  surrounding 
two  great  courts.  That  this  structure  is  of  late  date  is  clearly  indi- 
cated, not  only  by  its  state  of  preservation  but  by  the  presence  at  one 
corner  of  the  ruins  of  a Catholic  church. 

a The  measurements  given  in  this  [Professor  Holmes’)  paper  are  all  mere  estimates,  and  the  orien- 
tations are  only  approximate. 


Fig.  27. — Ground  plan  of  ruined  pueblo  on  Vallecito  creek. 


hewett] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


47 


No.  44-  Astialakwa. — An  interesting  group  of  ruined  buildings  is 
situated  on  the  high  and  almost  inaccessible  promontory,  a mesa  rem- 
nant, overlooking  the  ruin  at  the  confluence  of  the  east  and  west 
branches  of  Jemez  creek,  just  described.  The  ruins  stand  a short  dis- 
tance back  from  the  front  of  the  promontory  and  near  the  brink  of  the 
cliffs  on  the  west  side  (fig.  28,  b).  The  walls  are  of  unhewn  stone,  and 
bear  evidence  of  hurried  and  apparently  incomplete  construction, 
there  being  a notable  absence  of  debris  of  any  kind.  Traces  of  mortar 
occur  in  the  walls,  and  a little  plaster  still  remains  on  the  interior  sur- 
faces. The  walls  are  in  no  place  more  than  five  or  six  feet  in  height. 
The  buildings  are  in  a number  of  groups,  as  indicated  roughly  in  the 
sketch.  . . . There  can  be  little  doubt  that  this  village  was 

built  at  the  period  of  Spanish  encroachment  by  the  people  of  the  vil- 
lages below  as  a place  of  refuge  and  defense,  and  it  was  here,  accord- 
ing to  historical  accounts,  that  they  were  defeated  by  the  Spaniards 
and  compelled  to  descend  to  the  lowlands. 


It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  along  the  margins  of  the  precipice  are 
traces  of  defensive  works  built  of  stone. 

No.  45-  Giusewa. — A ruined  pueblo  of  considerable  importance  is 
situated  at  Jemez  Hot  Springs,  twelve  miles  above  Jemez  pueblo.  At 
present  the  chief  feature  of  interest  on  this  site  is  the  ruin  of  a Spanish 
church,  with  its  heavy  walls  and  fortress-like  tower.  It  has  been  con- 
structed of  materials  derived  from  the  immediate  vicinity.  The  tower 
and  upper  parts  are  of  the  impure  friable  limestones  of  the  promon- 
tory against  which  the  foundations  are  built.  The  lower  end  of  the 
church  and  the  walled  enclosure  extend  down  to  the  border  of  the 
arroyo,  and  the  latter  has  been  built  of  heterogeneous  materials.  The 
adobe  mortar  has  been  made  from  the  debris  of  ancient  house  sites  and 
is  full  of  fragments  of  pottery,  obsidian  chips,  and  charcoal. 


48  BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY  [bull.  32 

Bandelier  says  that  this  pueblo  “formed  several  hollow  quadrangles 
at  least  two  stories  high.  It  contained  about  eight  hundred  inhabi- 
tants. The  church  is  a solid  edifice,  the  walls  of  which  are  erect  to 
the  height  of  ten  or  fifteen  feet,  and  in  places  nearly  eight  feet  thick. 
It  is  not  as  large  as  the  one  at  Pecos,  and  behind  it,  connected  with 
the  choir  1)}*  a passage,  rises  an  octagonal  tower,  manifestly  erected 
for  safety  and  defense.  Nothing  is  left  of  the  so-called  'convent’  but 
foundations.  The  eastern  houses  of  the  pueblo  nearly  touch  the 
western  walls  of  the  church,  and  from  this  structure  the  village  and  a 
portion  of  the  valley  could  be  overlooked,  and  the  sides  of  the  mesas 
easily  scanned.  Ginsewa  [Giusewa]  is  an  historical  pueblo.  It  first 
appears  under  the  name  of  Guimzique  in  1 626.  It  seems  that  it  was 
abandoned  in  1622,  on  account  of  the  persistent  hostility  of  the  Nava- 
jos,  who  had  succeeded  in  scattering  the  Jemez  tribes.  In  1627  Fray 

Martin  de  Arvide  obtained  permission 
from  his  superior,  the  custodian  Fray 
Alonzo  de  Benavides,  to  attempt  to  gather 
the  tribe  again  in  its  old  home.  The 
efforts  of  the  monk  were  successful,  and 
the  Jemez  Indians  settled  in  two  of  their 
former  pueblos — at  Ginsewa  and  at 
Amoxiumqua.”  ° 

No.  46.  Amoxiumqua. — On  the  high 
mesa  overlooking  Jemez  Hot  Springs  on 
the  west  are  the  remains  of  another  large 
and  ancient  pueblo,  which  is  reached  by 
a tedious  and  very  precipitous  trail.  The 
ruin,  .a  sketch  plan  of  which  is  given 
in  figure  29,  stands  in  an  open  space 
in  the  forest,  about  a quarter  of  a mile 
from  the  brink  of  the  canyon,  and  from 
its  walls  a glimpse  can  be  had  of  the  lower 
valley  of  Jemez  creek.  It  is  larger  than  any  of  the  ruins  in  the  valley 
below,  and  appears  to  represent  two  periods  of  occupancy,  an  ancient 
or  pre-Spanish  one,  and  a more  modern  one,  probably  of  the  Spanish 
period,  the  later  village  having  been  built  upon  the  ruins  of  the  earlier. 
Bandelier  states6  that  Amoxiumqua  was  abandoned  previous  to  1680. 
In  the  accompanying  sketch  plan  (fig.  29)  the  old  town,  which  is  a 
mere  heap  of  debris  and  quite  limited  in  extent,  is  indicated  by  a stip- 
pled or  dotted  surface.  The  newer  construction  consists  of  a series  of 
connected  ridges,  two  or  three  rooms  in  width,  and  from  a few  feet  to 
eight  or  ten  feet  in  height.  Some  of  the  room  interiors  are  exposed 
and  still  retain  the  coatings  of  plaster,  and  the  ceilings  are  of  logs  with 


• 1 ///.  n i*iViiuVoU//.xu  I/MU  f'/M  X ''  £ 

'%  l|V#  t- 

V 


\ 


l- 1§ 


Fig.  29. — Ground  plan  of  Amoxi* 
umqua. 


a Final  Report,  pp.  204-205. 


& Ibid.,  p.  208. 


hewett] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


49 


transverse  layers  of  brush  or  splinters  to  support  the  earthen  cover- 
ing. The  stones  of  the  walls,  which  have  been  derived  from  the  cliffs 
in  the  vicinity,  are  rather  even  in  size,  and  have  been  in  cases  slightly 
dressed  on  the  outer  surface.  The  length  of  the  ruin  from  northeast 
to  southwest  is  about  350  yards,  and  the  greatest  width  is  some  200 
yards.  The  rows  of  ruined  buildings  have  a width  of  from  20  to  30 
feet.  Seven  circular  kiva-like  depressions  are  associated  with  the 
ruin.  Six  of  these  are  approximately  20  feet  in  diameter,  and  the 
sixth,  a part  of  the  encircling  wall  of  which  is  intact,  is  32  feet  in  diam- 
eter. On  the  side  opposite  the  canyon  is  a large  depression,  150  feet 
in  diameter  and  five  or  six  feet  deep,  which  contains  a pool  of  water, 
and  was  undoubtedly  used  as  a reservoir.  . . . 

No.  J7. — Another  ruined  pueblo  of  large  size  and  comparatively 
well  preserved  is  situated  in  an  open  space  in  the  forest  on  the  sum- 
mit of  a spur  of  the  plateau  overlooking  the  canyon  of  the  first  north- 
ern tributary  of  the  west  fork  of  Jemez  creek  and  some  two  miles  west 
of  the  great  ruin  (Amoxiumqua)  overlooking  Jemez  Hot  Springs. 
This  ruin  was  seen  from  the  opposite  side  of  the  canyon,  but  lack  of 
time  forbade  an  attempt  to  visit  it. 

No.  48- — A ruin  of  more  than  usual  interest  is  situated  on  the  west 
bank  of  San  Diego  creek,  about  15  miles  above  Jemez  pueblo.  At  the 
base  of  the  low  terrace  on  which  this  ruin  stands,  and  between  its  base 
and  the  creek,  the  Survey  camp  was  established.  Two  ravines  rising 
close  together  in  the  plateau,  face  to  the  west,  separate  as  they  approach 
the  creek  bed,  leaving  a somewhat  triangular  terrace  remnant  with 
gently  sloping  surface,  on  which  the  ruin  is  situated.  This  terrace  at 
the  lower  margin  is  about  50  feet  in  height  and  150  yards  long,  and  is 
perhaps  100  yards  deep  to  the  base  of  the  steep  slope  on  the  west. 
The  ruin  includes  one  principal  centrally-placed  group  of  structures 
and  four  or  five  inferior  structures,  as  indicated  on  the  ground  plan 
(fig.  30).  The  central  group,  a,  consists  of  two  wings  of  unequal 
length  and  from  30  to  60  feet  in  width,  connected  at  the  upper  end  by 
a transverse  group  of  razed  chambers.  The  length  of  the  longer  wing 
is  about  320  feet,  and  of  the  other  about  150  feet.  The  mass  of  debris 
indicates  the  outline  of  the  buildings  with  perfect  clearness  and  is  in 
places  10  feet  in  height.  The  chambers  were  numerous  and  irregular 
in  arrangement,  but  the  state  of  the  ruin  is  such  as  to  make  the  details 
of  the  plan  difficult  to  trace.  At  the  upper  end  of  the  intramural 
space  is  a kiva  depression  20  feet  in  diameter  and  two  or  three  feet 
deep;  and  at  the  lower  end,  near  the  edge  of  the  terrace  and  next  the 
wall  of  the  longer  wing,  is  another  of  like  diameter  and  about  four 
feet  in  depth.  On  the  opposite  side,  against  the  wall  of  the  shorter 
wing,  is  a stone  heap  some  10  feet  in  diameter  and  a few  feet  in  height. 
North  of  the  longer  wing  of  the  central  structure,  40  feet  distant,  and 
extending  along  the  northern  margin  of  the  terrace,  is  a ruin,  b,  some 
8806— No.  32—06 4 


50 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[BULL.  32 


30  feet  wide  and  150  feet  in  length,  and  in  places  six  feet  in  height, 
presenting  characters  in  the  main  identical  with  those  of  the  central 
structure.  In  the  space  between  the  two  clusters  is  a third  circular 
depression,  corresponding  in  size  with  those  previously  mentioned. 

Higher  up  the  sloping  terrace  on  the  northern  margin  is  a small  ruin 
mass,  c,  very  much  reduced.  On  the  south,  separated  from  the  corner 
of  the  shorter  wing  of  the  main  building  by  a space  about  10  feet  in 
width,  is  a fourth  ruin  mass,  (7.  about  40  feet  in  width  by  120  feet  in 
length,  the  lower  end  of  which  extends  well  down  to  the  margin  of  the 
terrace.  Its  features  correspond  closely  with  those  of  the  other  struc- 
tures. South  of  tliis  again,  and  20  feet  away  on  the  narrow  point  of 


the  terrace,  are  the  remains  of  a minor  structure,  inclosing  a kiva 
depression  30  feet  in  diameter  and  about  4 feet  in  depth;  and  below 
this,  again,  is  another  circular  depression  36  feet  in  diameter  and  5 
feet  in  depth,  with  which  no  ruins  are  connected.  Still  lower  down 
and  at  the  extreme  point  of  the  terrace,  SO  feet  from  the  depression 
just  described,  is  a small  ruin  mass  about  12  feet  square  and  of  no 
considerable  height. 

An  interesting  feature  of  this  pueblo  is  the  occurrence  of  three  or 
four  refuse  middens,  lying  on  the  slope  of  the  terrace  near  the  walls  of 
the  buildings.  These  consist  of  blackish  earth  with  many  impurities, 
including  bones  of  animals,  fragments  of  pottery,  and  various  imple- 


hewett] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


51 


merits  of  stone.  On  these  heaps  were  growing  dwarfish  wild  potato 
plants,  the  tubers,  although  ripe,  not  being  more  than  half  an  inch  in 
diameter.  This  ruin  presents  every  appearance  of  antiquity,  and,  so 
far  as  observed,  contains  no  definite  trace  of  the  presence  of  the  white 
man.  The  fallen  roof  timbers,  which  still  remain  among  the  debris 
in  some  of  the  chambers,  had  been  cut  with  primitive  tools. 

No.  4-9. — Sixteen  miles  above  Jemez  pueblo,  occupying  a low  slop- 
ing terrace  on  the  west  side  of  the  valley  and  30  or  40  yards  from  the 
creek,  is  a small  pueblo  group,  of  usual  type  (fig.  31).  It  is  about  40 
feet  above  the  creek  bed  and  covers  a space  some  50  yards  long,  facing 
the  stream,  and  50  yards  deep,  .reaching  back  to  the  steeper  ground. 
The  low  crumbling  walls  of  small  irregular  stones  indicate  a squarish 
structure  of  numerous  rooms, 
including  an  open  space  or  court, 
in  which  are  two  circular  depres- 
sions, probably  the  remains  of 
kivas.  A third  depression  occurs 
in  the  midst  of  the  ruined  walls 
on  the  north  side. 

Scattered  stone  lodges. — An 
important  feature  of  the  antiq- 
uities of  Jemez  valley  is  the  ruins 
of  small  stone  houses  that  are 
encountered  by  the  explorer  at 
every  turn  in  the  tributary  val- 
leys, on  the  steep  slopes  of  the  plateaus,  and  scattered  over  the 
upper  surfaces  of  the  wooded  tablelands.  In  the  foothills  they  are 
seen  sometimes  occupying  very  precipitous  sites,  and  in  riding 
through  the  deep  forests  of  the  uplands  they  may  be  counted  by 
the  score.  They  consist  generally  of  a single  room,  rarely  of  two 
or  more  rooms,  and  the  dimensions  of  the  apartments  seldom 
exceed  ten  or  twelve  feet.  The  walls  are  thin  and  loosely  laid  up, 
and  to-day  are  rarely  more  than  three  or  four  feet  in  height,  the 
dearth  of  debris  indicating  that  they  could  not  have  been  more  than 
one  story  in  height  at  any  time.  . . . These  houses  occur  in 

considerable  numbers  in  the  valley  of  the  San  Diego  near  the  great 
bend,  20  miles  above  Jemez  pueblo;  in  the  vicinity  of  the  warm 
springs,  a few  miles  above  the  bend;  on  the  plateau  east  of  Jemez 
springs;  and  along  the  terrace-like  projections  of  the  western  slope  of 
the  canyon  wall. 

The  existence  of  other  important  ruins  exceptionally  well  preserved 
has  been  reported  from  the  high  Valle  Grande  and  San  Antonio  valley 
on  the  eastern  rim  of  the  Jemez  basin;  also  from  the  foothills  of  the 
Nacimiento  range  on  the  upper  Guadalupe. 


Fig.  31. — Ground  plan  of  ruined  pueblo  1G  miles 
above  Jemez. 


52 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


[bull.  32 


MINOR  REMAINS  OF  ANTIQUITY 

From  the  foregoing  account  it  is  seen  that  the  archeological  remains 
of  the  Jemez  plateau  are  very  numerous  and  of  great  interest  and 
scientific  value.  The  village-sites  of  the  ancient  inhabitants,  with  all 
the  accessories  of  sedentary  village  life,  such  as  kivas,  shrines,  burial 
places,  fields,  irrigation  works,  lookouts,  stairways,  and  triils,  with  the 
vast  number  of  scattered  and  isolated  cliff-dwellings  and  small 
pueblos,  not  forming  aggregations  that  could  be  called  villages,  pre- 
serve a complete  picture  of  the  ancient  life  of  the  Southwest.  Buried 
under  the  debris  of  buildings  and  in  the  graves  of  the  dead  are  various 
artifacts  of  stone,  bone,  wood,  fiber,  and  clay  (pi.  xii,  xiii),  displaying 
the  simple  industries  and  domestic  life  of  the  inhabitants.  These, 
together  with  ceremonial  objects,  as  pipes,  fetiches,  medicine  stones, 
etc.  (pi.  xvi),  with  the  symbolic  ornamentation  of  domestic  and 
mortuary  pottery  (pi.  xiv,  xv),  yield  important  data  relative  to  the 
social  and  religious  life  of  the  time.  A few  illustrations  of  these 
various  art  ifacts  are  included  herewith. 

The  pottery  of  the  region  consists  mainly  of  food  bowls,  preserved  to 
us  through  the  symbolic  act  of  placing  food  with  the  dead.  But  little 
is  found  in  the  houses. 

The  pottery  found  consists  of  the  following  varieties: 

A.  Coiled  and  indented  ware,  plate  xiv,  a. 

B.  Smooth  undecorated  ware,  plate  xiv,  c. 

C.  Incised  ware,  plate  xiv,  d. 

D.  Polished  decorated  ware,  plate  xiv,  e. 

E.  Polished  decorated  ware,  red  with  glazed  ornament,  plate  xiv,  b. 

Of  class  A little  is  found,  and  this  is  mostly  in  fragmentary  condi- 
tion. The  pottery  of  this  class  was  used  principally  for  cooking  ves- 
sels, some  of  which  were  very  large.  Of  class  B but  little  is  found. 
Class  C is  still  more  rare.  Seventy-five  per  cent  of  all  the  pottery  is  of 
classes  I)  and  E.  This,  as  before  mentioned,  consists  principally  of 
food  bowls,  varying  from  four  to  sixteen  inches  in  diameter  and  in 
practically  all  cases  having  both  interior  and  exterior  decorations.  A 
few  small  ollas  are  found.  The  clay  used  was  not  of  first-rate  quality. 
It  contained  a considerable  amount  of  fine  sand  and  the  product  was  of 
a rather  porous  character  and  quite  thick  and  heavy.  Many  excep- 
tions to  this  condition  are  found,  however,  in  which  a much  finer  clay 
had  been  obtained  and  prepared  with  great  care,  making  an  excellent 
paste  and  permitting  the  construction  of  fine  thin  ware.  It  is  notice- 
able that  all  pottery  of  class  I)  is  of  superior  make. 

The  aboriginal  potters  had  considerable  knowledge  of  colors  and 
handled  them  with  good  effect  in  decoration.  Yellow  and  gray 
ware  was  always  decorated  with  black  lines  (pi.  xv).  Red  ware  was 
almost  invariably  decorated  with  black  and  red  lines  and  with  a salt 


HEWETT] 


ANTIQUITIES  OF  THE  .TEMEZ  PLATEAU 


53 


glaze  (pi.  xv,  e,J\  7i).  Four  shades  of  red  were  used,  two  shades  of 
this  color  being  often  applied  to  the  same  bowl.  The  system  of  orna- 
mentation was  bold  and  striking,  and  in  execution  ranges  from  very 
crude  to  very  good.  Representative  motives  were  sparingly  used.  In 
at  least  90  per  cent  of  all  the  decorative  work  a highly  developed  sym- 
bolism is  found.  Certain  symbolic  motives  are  very  persistent,  dis- 
playing many  variants,  but  capable  of  being  reduced  to  a few  funda- 
mental conceptions  (pl.xv,  a,  b,  d). 

THE  PRIVILEGE  OF  EXCAVATION 

This  presentation  of  the  antiquities  of  the  Jemez  plateau  is  neces- 
sarily incomplete,  since  there  are  many  sites  yet  unexplored,  but 
it  is  hoped  that  the  sketch  here  given  will  lend  encouragement  to 
further  exploration  and  serve  as  a nucleus  around  which  additional 
information  may  be  systematically  arranged  as  gathered  from  time 
to  time.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  these  ruins  are  mostly 
on  the  Jemez  forest  reserve,  and  that  excavations  on  the  forest 
reserves  are  strictly  forbidden  unless  authorized  by  the  Secretary  of 
Agriculture.  The  majority  of  ruins  not  situated  on  the  forest  reserves 
are  on  the  Indian  reservations  and  public  lands,  and  can  be  disturbed 
only  by  permission  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior. 


Appendix  A 


AN  ACT  for  the  preservation  of  American  antiquities. 

Be  it  enacted  by  the  Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the  United  States  of  America 
in  Congress  assembled,  That  any  person  who  shall  appropriate,  excavate,  injure,  or 
destroy  any  historic  or  prehistoric  ruin  or  monument,  or  any  object  of  antiquity, 
situated  on  lands  owned  or  controlled  by  the  Government  of  the  United  States,  with- 
out the  permission  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Department  of  the  Government  having 
jurisdiction  over  the  lands  on  which  said  antiquities  are  situated,  shall,  upon  convic- 
tion, be  fined  in  a sum  of  not  more  than  five  hundred  dollars  or  be  imprisoned  for  a 
period  of  not  more  than  ninety  days,  or  shall  suffer  both  fine  and  imprisonment,  in 
the  discretion  of  the  court. 

Sec.  2.  That  the  President  of  the  United  States  is  hereby  authorized,  in  his  discre- 
tion, to  declare  by  public  proclamation  historic  landmarks,  historic  and  prehistoric 
structures,  and  other  objects  of  historic  or  scientific  interest  that  are  situated  upon  the 
lands  owned  or  controlled  by  the  Government  of  the  United  States  to  be  national 
monuments,  and  may  reserve  as  a part  thereof  parcels  of  land,  the  limits  of  which  in 
all  cases  shall  be  confined  to  the  smallest  area  compatible  with  the  proper  care  and 
management  of  the  objects  to  be  protected:  Provided,  That  when  such  objects  are 
situated  upon  a tract  covered  by  a bona  fide  unperfected  claim  or  held  in  private 
ownership,  the  tract,  or  so  much  thereof  as  may  be  necessary  for  the  proper  care  and 
management  of  the  object,  may  be  relinquished  to  the  Government,  and  the  Secre- 
tary of  the  Interior  is  hereby  authorized  to  accept  the  relinquishment  of  such  tracts 
in  behalf  of  the  Government  of  the  United  States. 

Sec.  3.  That  permits  for  the  examination  of  ruins,  the  excavation  of  archaeological 
sites,  and  the  gathering  of  objects  of  antiquity  upon  the  lauds  under  their  respective 
jurisdictions  may  be  granted  by  the  Secretaries  of  the  Interior,  Agriculture,  and  War 
to  institutions  which  they  may  deem  properly  qualified  to  conduct  such  examination, 
excavation,  or  gathering,  subject  to  such  rules  and  regulations  as  they  may  prescribe: 
Provided,  That  the  examinations,  excavations,  and  gatherings  are  undertaken  for  the 
benefit  of  reputable  museums,  universities,  colleges,  or  other  recognized  scientific  or 
educational  institutions,  with  a view  to  increasing  the  knowledge  of  such  objects,  and 
that  the  gatherings  shall  be  made  for  permanent  preservation  in  public  museums. 

Sec.  4.  That  the  Secretaries  of  the  Departments  aforesaid  shall  make  and  publish 
from  time  to  time  uniform  rules  and  regulations  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  out  the 
provisions  of  this  Act. 

Approved,  June  8,  1906. 

54 


Appendix  B 


Specimen  Record  for  Card  Catalogue  of  Ruins  and  Other  Archeological  Sites. 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 
Catalogue  of  Archeological  Sites 

State,  New  Mexico.  Map,  Pajarito  park.  Site,  No.  6. 

Class,  Pueblo  and  cliff-village. 

Name,  Tshirege. 

Location:  Drainage,  Rio  Grande.  Pajarito  canyon. 

County,  Santa  Fe.  Township  19  N.  Range  7 E. 

Section.  Unsurveyed  reservation.  Jemez  forest  reserve. 

This  site  occupies  a low  mesa  about  15  miles  west  of  the  Rio  Grande,  10  miles 
southwest  of  San  Ildefonso  pueblo.  Can  be  reached  by  wagon  road  from  San 
Ildefonso  to  Alamo  canyon,  thence  by  trail  remainder  of  distance.  Ruins  may 
be  seen  from  abandoned  sawmill  road  6 miles  west  of  Buckman.  This  road  was 
formerly  much  traveled,  and  the  ruins  suffered  greatly  from  vandalism.  Build- 
dings  not  seriously  injured,  but  burial  mounds  much  disturbed. 

Large  pueblo  on  top  and  extensive  cliff- village  (cavate  type)  in  south  face  of 
mesa.  My  work  at  this  site  consisted  of  the  exploration  of  the  principal  ceme- 
tery, southeast  corner  of  the  pueblo;  the  excavation  of  one  ki  va,  and  of  14  rooms 
in  the  pueblo;  also  of  one  burial  crypt  in  south  face  of  mesa.  Map  of  mesa, 
ground  plan  of  pueblo,  numerous  sketches  and  photographs  made. 

Collections  secured  as  follows: 

Skeletal  remains,  75  individuals. 

Pottery,  340  specimens,  in  part  fragmentary.  1 

Bone  implements,  23. 

Stone  implements,  96. 

Miscellaneous,  85. 

All  collections  were  sent  to  the  museum  of  the  New  Mexico  Normal  University, 
Las  Vegas,  except  skeletal  remains,  which  were  forwarded  to  the  U.  S.  National 
Museum.  Photographs,  sketches,  maps,  plans,  etc.,  also  in  Normal  University 
museum. 

This  is  an  enormous  ruin,  and  the  work  done  represents  but  a small  part  of 
what  is  necessary  to  complete  the  investigation  of  the  site.  So  far  as  prosecuted, 
however,  the  work  is  finished  and  fully  recorded. 

Results  of  expedition  to  be  published  in  preliminary  form  in  the  American 
Anthropologist, 

(Signed)  Edgar  L.  Hewett. 

September,  1900. 


oo 


o 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  II 


ENTRANCES  TO  EXCAVATED  CLIFF-DWELLINGS 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  III 


a RESTORATION  OF  TSHIREGE  PUEBLO 


b RESTORATION  OF  CLIFF-DWELLINGS,  TSHIREGE 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  IV 


PETROGLYPHS  ON  THE  PUYE  CLIFFS,  PAJARITO  PARK 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  V 


a CLIFF-VILLAGE  OF  PUYE 


b RUINS  OF  PUYE  PUEBLO 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  VI 


TENT-ROCK  CLIFF-DWELLINGS  NEAR  OTOWI  CANYON 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  VII 


a MAP  OF  TSANKAWI  MESA 


RE5£RvO<«- 


% 


,/ 


/ 'Vwrt 


'\\% 


Secr/OA/  B 

Q KtVAS  !H  • '-••  ' i^sVfcd 

^ **»  -v„  communal  v 

o ^ build/nc  fjjffjj^ 

SfcmwcipiL  '|p:  ^ 

■'i  4 Bvp.ial  r*our:0 

%rj>  if  ^ - ■ \ j 


^ ”S "W-w- - ^Vvv'v V- 


Ly'V 


" 'V/, 


0„„. 


'^■STA/fl  WAV  •••*  **  CL" 


_ > 


ft  MAP  OF  TSHIREGE  MESA 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  VIII 


TREES  GROWING  IN  RUINS  OF  (a)  PUEBLO  AND  (6)  KIVA 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  IX 


a RUIN  NO.  18 


b PUEBLO  OF  YAPASHI 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  X 


a STONE  LIONS  OF  POTRERO  DE  LAS  VACAS  (REAR  VIEW) 


b LA  CUEVA  PINTADA  (THE  PAINTED  CAVE) 


RUINS  OF  RESERVOIR,  PAJARITO  PARK 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  XII 


TYPES  OF  ARTIFACTS  OF  STONE 

a,  6 Hatchets;  c hammer;  d maul;  e,/ metate  and  mano;  g,  h obsidian  flakes 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  XIII 


TYPES  OF  ARTIFACTS  OF  BONE,  SHELL,  ETC. 

a,  b,  c,  cl  Bone  whistles;  e,  /,  g,  h bone  awls;  i,  j,  k,  l pendants  of  shell 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  XIV 


a 


b 


TYPES  OF  POTTERY 

a Coiled  ware;  6 bowl  with  glazed  decoration;  c smooth  black  undecorated  ware-  d incised 
ware;  e polished  decorated  ware 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  XV 


a 


b 


c 


d 


MORTUARY  POTTERY 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


BULLETIN  32  PLATE  XVI 


b 

g,  h ceremonial  pipes 


CEREMONIAL  OBJECTS 

a War  god;  b mountain  lion  fetich;  c,  d fire  stones;  e / medicine  stones; 


BUREAU  OF  AMERICAN  ETHNOLOGY 


archaeological  map 

JEMEZ  PLATEAU 


